Thursday, June 20, 2019

Off the Beaten Track Walking Tour of Carmel-by-the-Sea (Jane Powers Walkway)

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If you are interested in this walking tour as an audio tour, our companion audio tour will be available at VoiceMap by July 15, 2019.  Check back here for the link.  Will have it up sooner if possible. To use VoiceMap, you will need to download the VoiceMap app from the Apple Store or Google Play.  The app is free, the tour will be $2.99. Happy Adventures and enjoy the tour! 

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The following, Off the Beaten Track Walking Tour of Carmel-by-the-Sea, is a collaboration by Carmel Residents Association members, Dale Byrne, and Lynn Momboisse.  Happy Adventures!


Carmel-by-the-Sea, a one square mile of village, is a plethora of walking possibilities with pleasurable panoramas.  This 2 mile round trip self-guided walking tour begins and ends at the historic Pine Inn.  On this walk, you will visit First Murphy House, walk Carmel's quiet northwest residential district, pass architecturally significant homes, discover the hidden Jane Powers Walkway and cross the boardwalk of North Del Mar Dunes to the north end of Carmel Beach which sits at the foot of the magnificent Pebble Beach Golf Links. (Note: if you plan on walking on Carmel Beach check the tide report first and plan your walk accordingly.)  We will return to our starting point at the Pine Inn via 4th Avenue Riparian Habitat and pass Robinson and Una's first two homes in Carmel.

Along the way you will learn the history behind some of Carmel's early residents, such as artist Jane Powers, writer Mary Austin, poet Robinson Jeffers and his wife Una, as well as architects M. J. Murphy, Hugh Comstock, and Albert Henry Hill. 







Our walk begins in the quaint courtyard of the Pine Inn off Lincoln Street between Ocean and 6th Avenues.  To one side you will find the Il Fornaio gazebo which was added to the courtyard in 1972. 


Just inside the swinging glass doors of the gazebo is the Panetteria Bakery. You might want to fuel up with a coffee or snack before we start walking. Next to the gazebo are the garden guest rooms of the Pine Inn and surrounding the courtyard on the opposite sides are Fourtane Estate Jewelry and Fjorn Scandinavian.  

Exit the courtyard via the wrought iron arch toward Lincoln Street.  The iron work of this arch was done by John Hudson a local blacksmith in 1975.  His wife Monica is an author, historian and local tour guide.   



Directly in front of you across Lincoln is the Spanish Eclectic style Harrison Memorial Library.  One of Carmel's first public works buildings, the library was constructed in 1927 and is named for Mrs. Ella Reid Harrison and her husband Supreme Court Justice, Ralph Chandler Harrison.  Mrs. Harrison was an avid supporter of the Carmel Free Library.  In her estate she left the city funds to establish a municipal library in memory of her husband.  







If you haven't been in the library lately you owe it to yourself to go in, get a library card and immerse yourself in all the great things they have to offer.  The library has longer hours and is now open on Sunday.  No excuses!  

Make a left on Lincoln.  The first doorway you will come to is Windy Oaks wine room.  This is just one of Carmel's numerous wine tasting locations.



Winemakers Jim and Judy Schultz have been making premium estate wines grown from grapes in Monterey and Santa Cruz mountains since 1999.  They specialize in Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah. Open daily noon to 6pm this is a unique Carmel experience, so stop in if times permits and sample one of their wines. 



Continue walking north on Lincoln and cross 6th Avenue to First Murphy Park and the lovely elderly couple that sit frozen in time. The man with his bow tie and sweater vest gently rests his hands on his cane and his head on the woman next to him.  They must be sweethearts, as she drapes one hand over his arm and in the other she holds a valentine heart.  
   

This bronze sculpture figure by George Wayne Lundeen, is called The Valentine.  It was purchased by the City of Carmel for $40,000 and installed here in First Murphy Park in 1994. 

Just behind this statue on the western edge of First Murphy Park along 6th Avenue is a public restroom. Take some time to enjoy this lovely public park, wander the meandering path up to the wooden deck.  From here you can view the ocean.  Then walk back along the path, notice the native plants that thrive here thanks to the City of Carmel and Friends of  Carmel Forest who maintain the park.  




Our next stop is First Murphy House, just ahead of you on the north edge of the park on Lincoln Street. It is the single story white wood framed house, with green trim and red brick chimney.



This house was built by M. J. Murphy one of Carmel's master builders.  M.J. was born in Utah in 1885.  In 1902 he, his mother Emma, and his sister Myrtle traveled to Carmel to meet with Frank Devendorf who had promised M. J. work building homes in the village of Carmel.  That same year, at the age of 17, M. J. built his first home for his mother and sister.  You can see them all standing in front of their new home below.  





By 1904 M. J. was an associate with Frank Devendorf as a builder for the Carmel Development Company.  In 1914, he had become a general contractor and by 1924 established M. J. Murphy, Inc. M. J. Murphy would go on to build over 300 homes and businesses in the Carmel area. 

M. J. Murphy was not a proponent of any particular style when he built his first house for his mother and sister.  This home, an 820 square foot cottage, is a mixture of Victorian (evident in the Queen Anne bay windows) and Craftsman Bungalow (rectangular single story) styles.   

 
M.J., his wife and children c. 1910 

Over the years the home was remodeled, moved, and eventually ended up in the middle of the commercial district on Mission between Fifth and Sixth as a storage unit.

In 1990 Murphy’s first house was purchased by developers who planned on tearing it down.  With the lack of funds, need for a new location for the house, and developers pressuring for demolition, the odds of saving this house seemed insurmountable.

But Carmelites can be very tenacious about their history.  To save the house from demolition, and with the support of the Carmel Heritage Society, the citizens of Carmel formed the First Murphy Foundation, which raised $16,000 for the relocation of First Murphy House. 
 

The City of Carmel offered city-owned property at Sixth and Lincoln for the relocation site, and the house was declared historic.

One morning residents of Carmel awoke to find the First Murphy House rising above the trees near Devendorf Park,  transported through town (almost as if leading a parade), and deposited at its present location. 
 

Local architect Brian Congleton did a spectacular job in facilitating this move and accurately restoring the homes original historic features. 

Though the house is owned by the City of Carmel, First Murphy House is run by CarmelHeritage Society, who currently has an exhibit of Carmel’s history on display in the house. If time permits stop in and view the free exhibit at First Murphy House, they are open Tuesday through Thursday 12pm to 3pm.  


However, if you don’t have time for the museum, make sure to take a look at the only surviving full scale wooden Milk Shrine located just to the right of the museum entrance.  The Milk Shrine concept was created by Perry McDonald who operated the first commercial dairy in Carmel. 


 Mr. McDonald had these structures installed every block and a half throughout the village of Carmel around 1916.  Residents would leave their money, empty milk jug, and a piece of paper with their order on the shelf and McDonald would fill their orders daily. 

Now continue walking north on Lincoln Street and turn right on 5th Avenue.  Continue on 5th and cross at Dolores Street to the Carmel Post Office. There are no addresses in Carmel so all Carmelites who live within the one square mile of the village are required to visit the Post Office daily in order to pick up or drop off their mail. 



Inside the lobby you will find the walls lined with Bill Bates Cartoons.  The one below accurately describes a chance meeting by friends at the post office. 




Bill Bates was born in 1930 in Texas.  As a young man he traveled the world with three cruise lines as a dance host and artist and enjoyed creating sketches of the passengers. After a stint as a cartoonist for the San Francisco Examiner, Bill moved to Carmel in 1972 and worked for the Carmel Pine Cone as a cartoonist for 36 years. Bill passed away in 2009 and his cartoons are still published weekly in the Carmel Pine Cone.  Bates wasn’t the only cartoonist to call Carmel home, in the 1980s Bill and residents Hank Ketcham (Dennis the Menace) and Gus Arriola (Gordo) would meet weekly for coffee on Tuesday; they called the round-tables “Toonsday.”  

After enjoying the timeless cartoons of Bill Bates, exit the Post Office, turn left and walk back in the direction you came on 5th Avenue to Lincoln. 

At Lincoln and 5th turn right and cross Lincoln.  Back in the early days of Carmel, this part of town was already forested and, of course, the heavily wooded Del Monte Forest was just to the north.  Much of the southern part of Carmel had few trees but plenty of manzanita and sand dunes.  The trees provided protection from stiff sea breezes and made this a popular place to build a home.  



As you walk up Lincoln Street it will split into two one-way lanes, divided by a row of pine trees and low bushes.  Stay to your left and continue walking north on this section of Lincoln.  



Just past the red-stained garage that stands askew in the easement is a fence with a sign that reads “Lachmund”.


Stop here and you’ll see a red one-story combination horizontal and vertical board-and-batten wood framed cottage with white Queen Anne diamond pane wood windows. 






This home was designed and built by M. J. Murphy in 1905 for Mable Gray Lachmund, a concert pianist and vocalist who at one time was married to a cellist.  Ms. Lachmund started camping in Carmel with her two sons in 1903 and, along with her Bohemian friends, including novelist Jack London and poet and playwright George Sterling, decided to settle down here.  She soon remarried as Ms. Young.

Her cottage is still owned by her descendants and, other than adding plumbing and electricity; it has changed very little since the days when Robinson Jeffers, Jack London, and Mary Austin and others gathered there.  The pot in which they made abalone stew still sits by the fireplace and the same books are on the book shelves.  Back in the early 1900’s tent cabins were quickly built from excess lumber and canvas to make up for the lack of rooms at the Pine Inn and other places.  The last remaining tent cabin in Carmel has stood the test of time on the back of this property, having been temporary housing for many famous artists.

 The naturally wild garden is also a National Wildlife Federation backyard habitat.

Now continue north on Lincoln about ½ a block.  The last house on the left at the end of this block is the historic Norman Rial House.  At the end of the driveway stand two stucco pillars topped with a little Japanese house with jade walls.  When you look down the driveway all you see of the actual house is the flat roof line of the carport.  



You will be able to see the uniqueness of the house in a few moments after you enter the path ahead of you off Lincoln. 

 

Carmel is a village built on hills. There are many lots on steep grades, this is one of them.  Building on this lot and others like it was quite challenging. This home was designed by Joe Wythe and George Thomson in 1957.  It was built in 1963 by Duane Judge.  Wythe’s “Organic” style design was influenced by Frank Lloyd Wright.  The house is built on concrete piers which not only support the house but the redwood balconies that wrap around the north and west facing elevations.  The house which is basically intact as constructed in 1957 drops down 2 and ½ stories into the gully at the base of 4th Avenue. 

Notice the white wooden guard rail to the right of the Norman Rial House.  Where this guard rail ends Lincoln Street becomes a footpath. Leave the street and enter the asphalt walking path located between the guard rail and the 4th Avenue stop sign.  Watch your head for low hanging oak limbs and continue walking toward the park bench at the end of the asphalt.  



For my Geocache friends there is a real tough cache here called Lincoln Street Trestle.  I have found almost every cache in town - this one still alludes me. 


 A short way down this path, before you reach the bench or wooden trestle ahead, look back and view the 2 and 1/2 story  Norman Rial House one more time.  You can really see the piers and decks from this direction.   


Then a bit further ahead, stop and take a look to your left through the two trees, between the phone lines, above the roof of the brown house in the picture above is the best view of Rose Cottage, home of early Carmel bohemian, and author, Mary Austin.  



Now there are two gates to the Mary Austin House.  If you are really adventurous, the upper gate is accessible by crossing the rustic wooden trestle bridge in front of you and then immediately walking left across the now continued Lincoln Street.  Here you will find, hidden among the ivy, a wooden gate with a stained glass red rose and the words Rose Cottage. It will look like the picture below. 

 For this tour, we are going to be viewing the lower gate.  So go a little further to the park bench with the memorial to Spike, the neat-est, best-est, and cool-est cat that ever lived at this footbridge.  Then take the stairs right in front of the bench down to the street below. 




When you get to the bottom of the stone steps look ahead of you, do you see a wooded area with pine and oak trees, ivy and a decorative iron arch? To the right of that will be another set of stone steps. 
Walk toward the wooded area and look to your left for an iron gate that says Rose Cottage.  Above that is another green gate.  This is the lower entrance to Rose Cottage.  

Mary Hunter was born in Illinois in 1868.  She married Stafford Wallace Austin in 1891 and they had one child, Ruth, who was born in 1892 with a mental disability.  Ruth was institutionalized in 1905; the same year Mary’s marriage to Stafford ended.  





During the early 1900’s Mary began to seriously pursue writing and while she was researching her novel Isidro in 1902, she visited the young writers and artists colony, Carmel-by-the-Sea.  In 1904 she met George Sterling, and it would be her friendship with George that would bring her to live in Carmel three years later.  
She purchased this lot where you are standing from the Carmel Development Company, but she did not have the funds to build a home.  So she built what she called a “wick-i-up.”  Kind of a deck which was set up high in the pine and oak trees in front of you.  This is where she would do her writing. 




Well, the wick-i-up didn’t stand up to Carmel’s winter storms, so in 1911, Mary hired M.J. Murphy to design her home on the property. You can see what that home originally looked like in the picture above.  Between 1911 and 1914, Mary Austin wrote at least six books and a play while living in this cottage. Subsequent owners have made additions and renovations so that today only a portion of the first floor remains original to M. J. Murphy’s Craftsman style cottage. 

Okay it is time to continue walking, turn around and with Mary’s Rose Cottage behind you follow the road ahead of you out of this cul de sac and turn right on to what is the continuation of 4th Avenue.  

At the intersection of 4th Avenue, Monte Verde Street and Palou Avenue - 4th Avenue will jog to your left as it crosses Monte Verde.  You do not want to go that way.  Just cross Monte Verde by going straight ahead onto Palou.  Stay on Palou and continue walking one block.  


You will pass this English cottage inspired home, with hand carved wood balcony posts and the diamond patterned glass windows.  Originally this home was built as an artist studio in 1933.




Continue  walking on Palou Avenue. At the intersection of  N. Casanova Street, make a sharp right turn on to N. Casanova and stop in front of the pink one story stucco house with gray hand carved wood shutters.  This is the historic Comstock home, Sunwise Turn Cottage

This Tudor Fairy Tale style cottage was built in 1929 by Hugh Comstock, who was famous for his Storybook Fairy Tale style cottages.  If you have taken our VoiceMap walking tour Fairy Tale Houses of Carmel-by-the-Sea, you will already be familiar with Hugh Comstock and visited eleven of his quaint homes in Carmel's Historic Hill DistrictSunwise Turn is considered the twin to Our House located mid-block on Santa Fe, as Comstock used the same design for each cottage.  

Hugh Comstock designed and built about 20 whimsical cottages in Carmel-by-the-Sea between the years 1924 and 1929, and became know as Carmel's Builder of Dreams. 



This cottage was build for Elspeth Rose, who along with her mother ran the Rose and Rose Antique Shop on Ocean Avenue during the 1920's.  Notice the miniature Milk Shrine by the front door, and the hand painted name on the stucco wall. 

Now turn and walk back the way you came on N. Casanova.  At the corner of Palou turn right and follow Palou a short distance around to the right.  This will bring you to the back of Sunwise Turn.  


You are now standing between Sunwise Turn (shown above) and the entrance to the Jane Powers Walkway (shown below).




As you are looking toward the Jane Powers Walkway, notice the light gray cottage with white trim just to the right of the entrance. 




This one story “L” shaped vertical board-and-batten wood home was built in 1921 and is one of almost 300 homes listed on the Carmel Historical Resources Inventory.  The architect and builder are listed as unknown.  So, why is it so important?  Well, it is a great example of a working class home in Carmel-by-the-Sea during the 1920s.  It was also the home of the widow Jennie Coleman, who owned the Candy Kitchen on Ocean Avenue.  She also sold real estate in Carmel and was one of the original signers of the petition to incorporate Carmel in 1916.

So now it is time to enter the Jane Powers Walkway.  This first block is filled with interesting metal decorations.  

  

The metal roadrunner signals that you have arrived at DragonsFyre, a three story house built in 1999.  The "paparazzi" gate off the walkway


is topped with a pair of dragons, and the fountain in the zen fire garden behind the gate drowns out the sound of the surf crashing a few blocks in the distance. 


VRBO lists DragonsFyre as renting for a cool $300+ per night.   

As you exit this first block, instead of just continuing straight on to the next block of the Jane Powers Walkway, let’s take a short detour and turn left on the street in front of you, Lopez Avenue.  
Lopez Avenue consists of only two short blocks.  But from an architectural point of view what you will find here is quite unique for Carmel.  On the west side of Lopez I want to call your attention to three houses which were built by Albert Henry Hill in 1961.  
Albert Henry Hill was born in England in 1913 to American parents,  His mother and siblings moved to Berkeley and Mr. Hill studied architecture at Cal Berkeley, graduating in 1936.  In the course of his career, he designed around 500 homes and numerous commercial projects and his style came to define what is known as the Second Bay Tradition style.  What is the Second Bay Tradition you might ask?  Well, it is kind of similar to the First and Third Bay Tradition. 




The First, Second and Third Bay Tradition originated in San Francisco and the greater Bay Area.  Their main characteristics are being linked to nature, using locally sourced material, such as redwood and being informal, abstract, rustic and some even call the style playful.  


The house pictured above was designed and built in 1961 by Hill.  This was his vacation get away from the Bay Area and it became his full-time residence in 1971.  This unique 3-bedroom, 3-bath home remained in the Hill family until 2015 when it sold for just over $1.5 million. 

The Kruse House right next door to the north, almost looks like an extension of Hill's house.  It was built for his business partner John Kruse and remains in the Kruse family.  Both of these two homes are built in the Third Bay Tradition style.    


The third house of the Hill trilogy that you will see as you walk back toward the Jane Powers Walkway, has the steeply angled folded roof and is shown above. This one was inspired by the "Organic" style of Frank Lloyd Wright.   



The house to the north side of the Jane Powers Walkway as you enter from Lopez going west, is named By the Sea (pictured above).  This American Foursquare style home was built in 1905.  Surely this house was passed by Jane Powers frequently as she walked to and from her home on the dunes.

From Lopez turn left back on to Jane Powers Walkway and continue down the block.  While you are walking, take in all the different homes around you, realizing that many of them were built back in the horse and buggy era, when the roads weren't even paved.  Since Carmel did not have a Planning Commission back then, some of these homes would be built in less than two months for a few thousand dollars!


As you exit this block of the walkway you will navigate down a few Carmel stone steps to Camino Real Street.  Walk directly across the street to the front of "Sunshine Cottage."  It is the gray one-story 1920s Craftsman-style home with the shingle wood siding.  The name hangs from a sign just below the roof line. The original owner is identified by the 1920 Census as Blanche M. Ayles a proprietor and teacher.  Stop here for a moment and I will fill you in on the background of Jane Gallatin Powers, the namesake of this walkway. 

Jane Gallatin was born in Sacramento in 1868.  When she was nine years old, her family moved into the house at 1526 H Street in Sacramento, California.  I know we are not in Sacramento, but this house on H Street is the historic California State Governor's Mansion pictured below.  



   
Jane's father, Albert Gallatin, was a fairly well to do partner in a local hardware store and he had this mansion built for his family in 1877.  Jane's father's wealth made it possible for her to travel to Europe, which is where she developed her love for art and painting.  

Frank and Jane Powers 

In 1891 Jane married San Francisco attorney, Frank Powers.  Now here is where it gets interesting.  In 1899, in lieu of being paid cash his legal work, Frank Powers was given a piece of land in what was, the burgeoning village of Carmel-by-the-Sea.




At Carmel's Centennial Launch January 8, 2016, Kirk Gafill (shown above at the Centennial), the great-great-grandson of Frank Powers told the story this way  about his great-great-grandfathers first visit to Carmel around 1899.



"He took the train down to Monterey, and the stage coach over what was then Monterey Hill and camped out by what was then the ruins of Carmel Mission.  He woke up in the morning with the fog, walked around the ruins, wandered over through the pine trees down to the beach and saw the dunes and realized it was a very special place and in fact there was some value to the legal bill he had just collected on."   

By 1904 Jane's husband Frank had amassed about 80% of what is now the City of Carmel-by-the-Sea.  Included in that would be a large plot of land with two structures located on the dunes of Carmel beach.  These would eventually become Jane's artist studio and the Powers family home.  We will be seeing these later on this tour.  For now enter the Jane Powers Walkway via Camino Real Street and walk to the end of the block. 

As you  exit this section of the walkway, you have arrived at Carmelo Street.  Cross the street and stop here for a moment before entering the next section of the pathway.  There is a little more to this story.  

On May 29, 1999, Carmel Heritage Society, dedicated a walkway to Jane Powers.  This stretched from the middle of the block on Palou Avenue between 4th Avenue and 2nd Avenue to N. San Antonio Avenue.  I have highlighted the walkway below in yellow on the 1906 Survey Map of Carmel-by-the-Sea that was filed by the Carmel Development Company in 1907. 




There was not much made of this dedication.  No article in the Pine Cone.  The only record is a video made by Carmel Heritage Society the day of the dedication.  I hope someday that this will be available to view by the general public.


It featured short speeches by then Councilwoman Barbara Livingston (now the President of Carmel Residence Association), then President of Carmel Heritage, Jim Gallagher and the great-great-granddaughter of Jane Powers, artist Erin Gafill.

Erin and her uncle Seth Ulman cut the ribbon to the walkway. Seth who is Jane's grandson, met his grandmother for the first time in Rome during the American Liberation. At the time he was a 24 year old medic with the US Army.  
   
The Jane Powers Walkway dedicated in 1999 likely would have been the very same path Jane Powers walked from her home, The Dunes, to visit her friend Mary Austin in the early 1900's.  Though the pathway cannot be found on Google Maps, it has been memorialized here in Carmel with a street sign and name. 

Now enter the final block of the Jane Powers Walkway.  Midway through this block you will get a stunning view of the Pacific Ocean and Pescadero Point at Pebble Beach.  Of course, the views were much better back before all the trees grew to such great heights.  There were also fewer houses at that time.  I am sure Jane was well familiar with this view,  her artist studio is straight ahead of you.  

See the chimney in the center of the picture below, that is part of one of the oldest dwellings in Carmel-by-the-Sea, built c. mid 1800's by Matthew M. Murphy.  This Murphy is no relation to M. J. Murphy. 

Matthew Murphy was a sea captain from Boston.  He built this for his nephew and nephew's wife, John and Ann Murphy, who ran a dairy from this location between 1867 and 1871.  I will tell you more about them in a moment.  


  
For now  I want you to concentrate on crossing San Antonio Street safely.  This is a very busy street as the Carmel Gate entrance to Pebble Beach is to the right on San Antonio.  So take your time, look both ways, then look again just to make sure it is safe to cross.  Make your way to the sidewalk on the other side of the street, turn left and continue walking to the driveway ahead of you.  

In 1993 Kirstie Wilde wrote on the History of the Murphy-Powers Barn/Studio: "Frank and Jane Powers at one time held deeds to more than 1600 Carmel lots, and had their pick of any of them for their personal residence and art studio. They chose to live among the sand dunes west of San Antonio Avenue, which already contained a ranch house and log barn, thanks to Irish pioneers who sixty years earlier decided that this spot was perfect, the end of the rainbow." (1)


On March 16, 1904, Frank H. Powers signed the deed taking possession of the ranch house and log barn from Ann Murphy.  But let's rewind a half a century. Ann Murphy was born in Ireland, her husband John Monroe Murphy was born in the United States. They married in Boston on September 18, 1853.  After begetting four children they headed west. Four more children were born in northern and central California and their last two children born in Monterey.  Eight children survived to become some of the first citizens of Carmel.  



John and Ann Murphy 

John and Ann, along with their eight children made a homestead squatting on 92 acres of what would become Carmel.  John's uncle Matthew Murphy, built the house and barn on the northern dunes of what is now Carmel Beach.  

In 1875, after a survey had been completed, John Murphy was allowed to formalize their family claim by paying the U.S. Government $1.25 per acre.  On May 20, 1875, John Murphy received patient deeds for his land signed by President Ulysses S. Grant. 

                       

Now fast forward to 1904, Ann Murphy, a widow, sold her property on Carmel beach to Frank Powers.  The picture above is of the Murphy Barn after Frank and Jane took possession.  Frank is pictured to the left and Jane to the far right.  Jane remodeled the barn into Carmel's first art studio.  In 1905 Jane became a founding member and Vice-President of the Arts and Crafts Club of Carmel which was the precursor of the Carmel Art Association.  

After the 1906 earthquake, Jane convinced many of her artist friends to move from San Francisco to Carmel.  Jane strongly influenced the promotion of Carmel as a colony for artists throughout her time as a resident.  Both Frank and Jane were major influences on the development of Carmel.  In 1910, eleven years after Frank obtained his first piece of land in Carmel as payment for a legal bill, there were 375 homes in the village, many of them built by citizens whose life work was connected with the arts in some form.  

In 1909, Wilhelm Heinrich Funk was commissioned to paint a portrait of Jane Powers.  Something happened between Jane and Wilhelm that may have been more than a friendship.  Whatever it was, it brought an end to the Powers' idyllic life in Carmel.  Frank rewrote his will in 1914 leaving Jane only a fixed monthly income and a homestead in either their San Francisco or Carmel home.    


 

Now, if you stand outside the gate of the first driveway south of the Jane Powers Walkway on N. San Antonio, take a look down the driveway and to your immediate right.  See the staggered two car garage?    



Look just to the right of that and you will notice two wooden French door gates with a one lite grate on each.  Now that I have you looking in the correct direction, look beyond the gates and see if you can make out what looks like a log cabin wall on the other side of the bushes.  That is the remaining portion of the Jane Powers Artist Studio.  Fortunately, the current owners have restored it.  But, for now, that is all we can see of it.  

 



The picture above shows what you should be looking for.  


Continuing south on N. San Antonio when you come to the next driveway you will see the house named c'est la view. 




I hope you recognize the style.  You should, as it is another Third Bay Tradition style home by architect Albert Henry Hill.  It is very similar to two of the homes you saw a few stops ago on Lopez.  

Mr. Hill built this spectacular home in 1971.  It has a stunning view of the Pebble Beach Golf Links.  The current owners also own the cottage on the lot just to the left.  If you stand on the right side of this driveway, look at an angle through the trees on the left side of the driveway, you'll get a good view (shown in the picture below) of the one-story Dunes House



Now continue walking a few feet to the adjacent driveway which leads to the Dunes House and I will fill you in on more of the Jane Powers story.  

The Dunes, originally built by Matthew Murphy in the mid-1800s, was remodeled by the Powers family in 1904.  They added a wood floor to what had formerly been dirt and sand.  The Dunes is pictured below c. 1911. That is Frank on the porch holding his granddaughter Lolly the grandmother of artist Erin Gafill.  


Frank Powers died in 1920 at the age of 56.  According to Jane Powers granddaughter Lolly Fassett, shortly thereafter, Jane took all her paintings from her art studio down to the Carmel beach and burned them in a roaring bonfire.  Why would she do this?  It could be speculated that she was distraught over how her seemingly idyllic life in Carmel had ended with the painting of her portrait by Wilhelm Heinrich Funk.  And that by destroying her paintings she might be able to move on with her life. That's exactly what she did.  Jane moved to Rome where she resumed painting in studios she set up in Paris, Rome and Capri. 

In 1942 Jane was living in Rome during the German occupation.  Her fixed monthly income guaranteed her by her husband's will was cut off. In 1944 during the liberation, Jane's grandson Seth Ulman, a 24 year old US Army medic met his grandmother for the first time. Jane Gallitan Powers died  shortly thereafter in December 1944. 

Artist Erin Gafill, the great-great-granddaughter of Jane Powers wrote a touching piece on her great-great-grandmother called The Life & Legacy of a California Artist - Jane Gallatin Powers (1868-1944). It is worth the read. 


Sorry that story ended on such a sad note, but I promise to keep things upbeat from here on out.  Turns out that there were many sad note endings to some of Carmel's Bohemians, but I will save that for another tour.  

Now continue walking. At the next driveway look for the California Coastal Trail and Carmel Beach sign.  

  
Turn right following the direction toward the beach.  This path parallels driveways to Carmel's Sand and Sea subdivision.  



While you walk along the metal guard rail toward the beach look to your right through the eucalyptus trees and you may see a filtered view of the Dunes House.  It is gray with red trim.  


When you see the sign that reads
 Coastal Access enter the pathway.  



  Stay on this public access path. 


The path exits onto a boardwalk that crosses the North Del Mar Dunes.  This boardwalk and the stairs at the end to the beach were developed in 2010.  


Continue on the boardwalk that meanders through a protected Habitat for Tidestrom's Lupine and the Black Legless Lizard.  



I have never actually seen the Black Legless Lizard (which sounds like a snake).  But I did look up Mr. B. L. Lizard on Wikipedia, so keep an eye out for one of these. Snake right? 


At the end of the boardwalk there
is a set of 64 steps to the beach.  



So now you have come to the wooden deck landing.  In front of you are the Pacific Ocean and 64 wooden steps that lead down to Carmel Beach. But before you head down to the beach let's go over some safety precautions.  

Depending upon what time of day you take this walking tour the tide will either be in or it will be out.  If the tide is out then you should be able to walk easily up or down the beach without being blocked in any way.  

                       



But if the tide is in, or it is winter time, the tide here can come all the way up to the base of the steps.  Don't worry that puppy made it back to his person but it was a bit daunting there for a moment.  If it is that high, do not walk the beach.


                        


If it is marginally high, meaning you can see that it blocks part of the beach walking area in front of you just avoid that area. 


                        


Just be mindful as tides do change the beach landscape hourly. 


 


Also never try to beat the tide as you more than likely will lose.  And never, and I mean never underestimate the power of those waves or turn your back to the ocean. 


Okay now you are ready to make your decision to walk the beach or not walk the beach.  If you decide not to descend the stairs, just reverse the direction from which you came.  Otherwise head off down the stairs, which will wander from one direction to another and make for interesting photo ops. 

As you exit the stairs you may walk to your right or to your left.  If you choose right, you will be heading toward the base of a rock cliff.  At the top of this cliff is the 9th and 10th hole of the Pebble Peach Golf Links, the location of the 2019 U. S. Open Championship.

If you walk to the left from the base of the steps you will be heading toward the Ocean Avenue dune area which is much more crowded.     


Make sure you take notice of the plethora of shore birds.  Besides the common California Gull 



I hope you are able to spot a sandpiper or a godwit feeding at the shoreline.  Or if you look to the sky you might be lucky enough to see a graceful flock of pelicans gliding in for a landing on the surf.  



So enjoy yourself and explore.  Even if only for a moment make sure you take your shoes off and feel that soft Carmel  sand between your toes.  

As you return to the stairs you cannot miss the mansion that peaks over the sea wall - that brought in the highest recorded sale in Carmel-by-the-Sea to date.

Carmel Realty Company, representing the sellers, sold this property in December 2015 to an east coast bohemian venture capitalist for $27 million. 

             
Now climb back up the 64 steps
and reverse your direction 
via the boardwalk
 and pathway 



to the intersection of San Antonio and 4th Avenue.




Resist the urge to follow the arrows on the sign to Ocean Avenue just continue straight on 4th.  This will take you to the pedestrian pathway known as the 4th Avenue Riparian Habitat. 

In late 2001, more than 30 eucalyptus trees were removed from this four block stretch of 4th Avenue due to the danger they presented to the residents who lived under their canopy.

In 2008 the city awarded Green Valley Landscaping a $280,661 contract to restore the area.  You will find the plaque shown in the picture below at the southwest corner of Casanova and 4th Avenue.  


The plan for the restoration included restoring the natural habitat along the drainage channel, planting trees and shrubs, creating a pedestrian path and embedding an underground storage tank to provide reclaimed water for irrigation.  

Between 2008 and 2010 the restoration was completed except for the underground storage tank which proved to be too costly.  

Cross Carmelo and Camino Real, and continue walking along the 4th Avenue Riparian Habitat path.  As you walk along, please make sure to take notice of the beauty of Carmel's urban forest of coastal live oak, Monterey pine and Monterey cypress.  


Just before Casanova Avenue you will come to Lopez Avenue, make a left on Lopez.  Two houses from the corner on the east side of the street is a cottage called Casanova Cottage, built in 1914, it was the second residence in Carmel-by-the-Sea of famous Carmelites Robinson and Una Jeffers


Una Call was born in Michigan in 1884.  At the age of 17 she left home and attended the University of California at Berkeley.  It was there that she met a young attorney, Edward Kuster.  Within a year they were married and moved to Los Angeles so Kuster could start his law practice.  Una, with her husband’s permission, went back to school in 1905 at the University of Southern California.

Robinson Jeffers was born in 1888 in Pennsylvania.  When he was 16, he enrolled in Occidental College and graduated at the age of 18.  In 1907, Robin enrolled in medical school at the University of Southern California.   It was there at the University of Southern California in an Advance German class that Una Call Kuster met Robin Jeffers.

By 1908 the two were pretty much inseparable. So I’m sure you can guess what happened.  Anyway, Una and Edward were divorced August 1, 1913 and Una and Robin married August 2, 1913.  In the fall of 1914, the Jeffers traveled to Carmel.  Here is how Robin described it, “When the stagecoach topped the hill from Monterey, and we looked down though the pines and sea-fogs on Carmel Bay, it was evident that we had come without knowing it to our inevitable place.” 
The first place they rented in Carmel we will visit in a moment.  The house you are standing in front of was their second rental.  They moved here after Una gave birth to their twin sons, Garth and Donnan.



The picture above shows Robin with the twins in from of what is now known as Casanova Cottage. They would live here until 1919 when their final home, the stone Tor House was completed on Carmel Point.  

Walk back the way you came to 4th Avenue and turn left.  Then continue one more block to Monte Verde then turn right.  The path of the 4th Avenue Riparian Habitat ends here.






On the east side of Monte Verde you will come to an area that is extremely overgrown.  It is surrounded by a wire link fence and has a sign that states to keep out.  Since it is absolutely unsafe to go behind this fence, please heed the warning. 



The undated picture above of the log cabin was taken from the G. William Gahagan Scrapbook at the Harrison Memorial Library History Branch.  My guess is that this picture is at least 20 years old, possibly from the late 1990s.



Behind that overgrown mess in front of you sits the first home Robin and Una rented when they came to Carmel in 1914.  The tiny log cabin was built in 1902 for Alameda attorney George H. Richardson. The picture above shows Robin, Una and some relatives in front of the cabin in 1914. 

In 1941 Una wrote about their blissful time in the cabin in the Carmel Pine Cone – “So began our happy life in Carmel, full and over-full of joy from the first. Robin was writing poetry. There was housework and continual wood chopping to fill the maw of the great fireplace in the drafty cabin.  We explored the village street by street, and dreamed around the crumbling walls of the old mission.  When we walked up from the shore at sunset we would see smoke drifting up from hidden chimneys that foretold of our own happy supper and evening by the fire.”  In 1917 after just a few years in this charming cabin, the Jeffers family had grown to 4.  Robin found them a larger home just up the street at Casanova Cottage.   

From here, keep walking up Monte Verde toward Ocean Avenue.  We are quickly coming to the end of this Off the Beaten Path Tour of Carmel-by-the-Sea. 



Cross 5th Avenue and keep walking up Monte Verde. The second house from the corner on the east side with the river rock stone wall out in front is the Benjamin Turner House.  It is also known as the first brick house in Carmel.  

Mr. Turner was a stone mason by trade.  A native of England, he came to San Francisco in the 1860s and built many of the brick buildings in the commercial district there.  He came to Carmel around 1898 and built this house.  Except for the window and door casings, chimney, and all the wall corners, this house was originally built of red brick.  It was painted white many years later. 



The undated picture above shows Mr.  Turner, his daughter Emma Ohm, with a baby, and friend Elizabeth Aucourt, also with a baby, in front of this house.   

Cross 6th Avenue at Monte Verde and continue past the entrance to the II Fornaio Restaurant located in the Pine Inn.



At the corner of Monte Verde and Ocean Avenue turn left and keep walking. 


Enter the ornate oval beveled glass door of the Pine Inn that opens to Ocean Avenue.




You will find this between Elizabeth W on the left and Lush Fresh Handmade Cosmetics on the right.   Walk up the red carpeted stairway, with walls lined with silk tapestries, to the Pine Inn lobby and step back to the turn of the 20th century.




Have a seat for a moment in the antique balloon chair at the top of the stairs while I fill you in on the history of this hotel.  In the late 1800s the first hotel in Carmel, Hotel Carmelo, was built on Ocean Avenue and Junipero Street. In 1903 it was purchased by Frank Devendorf and Frank Powers of the Carmel Development Company.  It was partially dismantled, hoisted onto pine logs, and pulled by mule down Ocean Avenue to its present location here at Ocean Avenue and Monte Verde Street.



On July 4, 1903, the Hotel Carmelo was reopened to great fanfare as the Pine Inn. Over the years the hotel has changed hands and more guest rooms were added. Overflow guests were put up in the tent cabins we discussed earlier on this tour.   In 1941, local hotelier Harrison Godwin purchased the hotel.  He changed the interior to French Victorian and added a courtyard, restaurant and shops to the hotel grounds.  The current owners, Richard and Mimi Gunner purchased the Pine Inn in 1985 and transformed the interior to what you see today, a Eurasian Victorian style with lacquered Chinese furniture and Pierre Deux French fabrics, some of which came from their world travels.  Notice the fireplace in the lobby.  This is actually the original from the Hotel Carmelo circa 1889. 

Well, this is where I will be leaving you.  You might consider stopping in at Il Fornaio bar for a drink or snack, especially if it is Happy Hour time.   The entrance is right off the back of this lobby.

Thank  you for joining me today and I hope you have enjoyed this Off the Beaten Path Tour of Carmel-by-the-Sea.  Look for other walking and driving tours of Carmel in the VoiceMap directory under Monterey Peninsula and discover more of what this beautiful village has to offer. 

Until next time, happy adventures!  

___
(1) History of Murphy-Powers-Comstock Barn/Studio, prepared by Krstie Wilde, April 12, 1993. 

Historical information on the Murphy/Powers property made possible by History of the Murphy-Powers-Comstock Barn/Studio West of San Antonio Avenue Carmel, California - Prepared by Kirstie Wilde in support of an application for inclusion of this structure on Carmel's Historic Preservation List - dated April 12, 1993 - Carmel-by-the-Sea Department of Community Planning and Building files. 
__

Photography by L. A. Momboisse and Dale Byrne unless otherwise noted below:

- Black and White Photo of M. J. Murphy with his mother and sister in front of First Murphy House.  (Harrison Memorial Library Local History Department) 

-Black and White Photo of M. J. Murphy with wife and children, 1910. (M. J. Murphy Hardware Carmel Valley)

- Two Color Photos of First Murphy House relocation. (Harrison Memorial Library Local History Department)


- Photograph of Mary Austin c. 1900 taken by Charles Fletcher Lummis (Wikipedia) 

- Photograph of Mary Austin and James Hopper in her "wick-i-up," near her home at 4th and Lincoln. (Harrison Memorial Library Local History Branch) 


-Photograph of Mary Austin House in Carmel on Lincoln north of Fourth from The Book News Monthly, April 1915 (Harrison Memorial Library Local History Branch).

-Photograph of Frank Powers and Jane Gallatin Powers from Carmel City Hall Records - History of Murphy-Powers-Comstock Barn/Studio, prepared by Kirstie Wilde, April 12, 1993 - photographs from Erin Lee Gafill Collection. 


-Portion of Map of Carmel surveyed December 1906, filed at the request of F. H. Powers (Carmel Development Co.) August 12, 1907.  (Harrison Memorial Library Local History Branch)

- Photograph of John and Ann Murphy (Gloria Lester Collection)  History of the Murphy-Powers-Comstock Barn/Studio West of San Antonio Avenue Carmel, California Prepared by Kirstie Wilde in support of an application for inclusion of this structure on Carmel's Historic Preservation List dated April 12, 1993. (Carmel by the Sea Department of Community Planning and Building files)

-Photograph of Murphy Barn/Powers Art Studio c. 1905 with Frank and Jane Powers with their children.  Photo taken by Edgar Cohen.  Photo courtesy of the Fassett Family Archives.



-Photograph of Murphy/Powers House c. 1911 with Frank Powers holding his daughter Lolly who is Erin Lee Gafill's grandmother.  Erin made these two pictures possible.  Photo courtesy of the Fassett Family Archives.  

-Photo of Anniella pulchra from Wikipedia



-Black and white pictures of Robin and Una Jeffers by Genthe from A Tour of Tor House Home of Robinson Jeffers, Editing Jean Ritter-Murry (Tor House Foundation, 2003), 6. 

-Black and white picture of Robin and the twins at Trethaway cottage on Lopez - Courtesy of the Tor House Foundation Archival Collection.

- Photo of Richardson Cabin from the G. William Gahagan Scrapbook.  (Harrison Memorial Local History Branch) 



-Black and white picture of Richardson Cabin with Robin and Una Jeffers - Melba Berry Bennett, The Stone Mason of Tor House - The Life and Work of Robinson Jeffers (The Ward Ritchie Press, 1966). 

-Black and white picture of the Turner House. (Harrison Memorial Library Local History Branch)

-Black and white picture of Pine Inn from Carmel Development Company brochure early 1900's. (Harrison Memorial Library Local History Branch)