Carmel by the Sea: Mission Ranch, Mission Trails Park, Mission Basilica Walking Tour
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Mission Ranch Meadow
Okay it is time to get this tour underway.
Our tour begins at the Mission Ranch sign located at 26270 Dolores Street in Carmel. The sign will be to the left of a wooden wagon decorated with flowers and sheltered by a canopy of century old eucalyptus trees.
Stop here in front of the The Farmhouse 1850 sign while I give you a brief history of this property.
In 1834, after the Mexican government secularized the missions, the mission land was divided into land grants. The 160 acres around Carmel Mission was acquired by Juan Romero.
Spanish for The Royal Road, this 700 mile California Mission Trail connects 21 mission, 4 presidios and several pueblos from Mission San Diego de Alcala in the south to Mission San Francisco Solano in the north.
In order to facilitate overland travel during early mission days these settlements were situated approximately 30 miles apart, or what was considered a day’s journey by horseback.
On July 7, 1846, U.S. military forces
under Commander John Drake Sloat raised the American flag at the Custom House
in Monterey and claimed California for the United States of America. Four years later on September 9th,
California would become the 31st state of the Union.
Up ahead of you, slightly to your left, you will come to a crosswalk. Use this to cross 13th Avenue. After crossing 13th turn right and use the crosswalk to cross Mission Street.
At the end of the driveway to the left of the crosswalk, do you see the metal gate which features sun rays shining down on a bonsai-style banyan tree? Stop here for a moment off to the side of the driveway while I tell you about this unique home.
In 1948 the property was sold to Countess Kinnoull. Born Enid Hamilton-Fellow, the only child of Ernest Gaddesden Fellows and Margaret Hamilton Wills, a wealthy British family, Margaret’s father was Sir Frederick Wills, a founder of one of the world’s largest tobacco companies, The Imperial Group.
The trail has another fork to the right, do not take this fork, keep walking straight up the hill to the Flanders Mansion driveway.
Gutterson designed this Tudor Revival-style home with a unique system of interlocking concrete wall blocks, which were essentially fireproof and waterproof. The blocks were produced locally and known as Carmel Thermotite. Outlands was completed in 1925 at a cost of $17,500.
After the death of Grace in 1967, her beneficiaries developed a plan to subdivide the land and build 64 residential units on the property. The Carmel City Planning Department denied their plan and in 1972 the heirs agreed to sell the property to the City of Carmel for $275,000. This along with the adjacent Doolittle property would, as I mentioned before, become Mission Trail Nature Preserve. In 1989 Flanders Mansion was listed on the National Registrar of Historic Places.
Photo of map taken at Harrison Memorial Library Local History Branch
In 1769 at the age of 56, Serra joined
the Gaspar de Portola expedition and begin the settlement of Alta California. He
would found the first mission in San Diego in July of that year and on June 3,
1770 his second mission, San Carlos Borromeo, commonly known as Carmel Mission.
Though he would go on to establish seven more missions in Alta California before his death in 1784, Carmel Mission would become Serra permanent home, his mission headquarters and eventually his burial site.
From the Mission Orchard House walk straight and pass in front of the Carmel Mission Office and through the parking area to the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament.
It will be the adobe building to your left with the covered portico. Walk up the steps and have a seat for a moment on the wall under the portico while I tell you a little about this chapel.
Take some time now to visit the inside of the chapel. It is used for daily Mass, at 7 am and 12 noon.
The reconstruction of this building was made possible by a generous gift from Carl Benzberg, who donated the funds in memory of his mother Ann Sutter. Her grave is found inside the chapel in front of the altar.
The second panel of pictures features historical renderings of the mission over the years.
Currently the Carmel Mission
Foundation is raising the money for Phase II a $20 million restoration project that
includes the Mission’s five museums, California’s first library, and California’s
oldest residence, Mission Orchard House.
Now with the Courtyard Informational Panels behind you walk straight ahead to the courtyard fountain.
The early years at Carmel Mission were very hard on the padres as they depended on sporadic deliveries from ships from Mexico for their food supplies. The Native people saw that the padres had things they could use, and that is what initially brought them together. Then in reciprocation, and a gesture of kindness, the Rumsien people shared what food they could with the padres.
It is reported in mission diaries that the Native people were not forced to convert to Christianity, but that it should be their free choice to join. Between the years of 1770 and 1836, over 4,000 were baptized at Carmel Mission. Once baptized though, converts were expected to adhere to a way of life much different to what they were used to, some found this difficult.
Here is how William Henry Brewer who
conducted an extensive survey of the geology of California described the mission
ruins in his book Up and Down California
in 1860 – 1864.
Commissioned by Fr. Mestres, what would become the Downie Museum was built in 1919 and completed in 1921. The adobe was originally built as quarters for visiting priests. It is located on the approximate site of the second mission church built between 1773 and 1776, which consisted of a large hut built of planks with a mud plaster roof. It was dedicated to Harry Downie in 1980 and today serves as the Harry Downie Museum.
Walk straight under the archway ahead into the Mission Cemetery which
is to the right of the church.
Now let me call your attention back to
what is the 7th and final church built here on this property. Fr. Serra had the plans drawn, and for years
envisioned this fine church at Carmel.
However, he did not see it build as he died in 1784. His friend, Fr. Lausen, and successor provided the building oversight to this church which was constructed between 1793 and 1797 by architect and stonemason Manuel Ruiz. Under Fr. Lausen Carmel Mission would reach the height of its prosperity.
The first thing you should notice is the tile on the ground and the pews. During mission days the floor was hard packed dirt. This made burial in the church easier. In mission days, pews did not exist as most stood or sat on the dirt floor.
The pictures on either side of the door are of St.
Bibiana and St. Raymond of Penaforte. Their frames are 17th century.
The statues on the reredos are saints of special importance to the Franciscans. At the top under the white dove which symbolizes the Holy Spirit, is St. Charles Borromeo, acquired in 1792 he is the patron of this church. To the left is St. Michael the Archangel carved around 1809 and opposite him, St. Anthony of Padua. The bottom left is a 19th century statue of Mary entitled La Purisima Conception and opposite her, St Bonaventure carved in the 18th century.
To the right and just outside the altar area is a wooden reliquary containing wood pieces from Fr. Serra’s original coffin. Fr. Serra died on August 28, 1784 and was buried the next day at the altar of the 5th church built on this site, which was an adobe. When this 7th stone church was constructed, the altar was built to include the grave of Fr. Serra.
After you have explored this chapel exit the door directly opposite the way you entered and proceed into the quadrangle area.
As you exit the Mora Chapel
immediately turn left and continue walking under the covered walkway. In this area you will find a number of
historic photographs pertaining to the Carmel Mission.
When you come to the first opening in the stucco wall, exit the covered walkway area by turning right into the quadrangle and walk to the fountain.
California mission’s were arranged around a quadrangle, creating an open courtyard in the middle. It was here in this outdoor room where much of mission life took place. Here you would find an outdoor kitchen with a beehive oven for making bread, an oil press and grinding mill.
Erected in celebration of the 300th anniversary of Fr. Serra’s birth in 1713, it is also a lasting tribute to some of the donors who made the current ongoing restorations possible.
The bell in front of the wall is the Ave Maria bell. Cast in Mexico City in 1807 and installed at the Carmel Mission in 1820, this bell was removed by the Native people, when the mission system secularized and disbanded, for safekeeping. It eventually ended up in St. Patrick’s Church in Watsonville. In 1925 it was installed back in the mission bell tower, but cracked after usage and had to be removed. More on this bell later on our tour.
Now I want to call your attention to the covered patios that surround this courtyard. These are the hallways that lead to the classrooms of Junipero Serra School.
Now turn around and with the fountain behind you walk straight toward the wooden cross.
This cross marks the site where Fr. Serra erected
the first Mission cross in 1771. Downie
discovered fragments of the original wooden cross at this exact location and
built this replica using timbers from the mission itself.
Next we are going to be visiting the Brides Room. This is where women get ready before their wedding day ceremony, it also houses a number of vintage clerical vestments that date back to the early mission period displayed in glass cases built by Downie.
To reach this museum from the Mission Prayer Garden walk straight ahead to the covered walkway. Enter the walkway, immediately turn right, ascend the stairs and
enter the door into the main church.
The first room you will come to was originally the mission guest dining room. Today it is filled with glass display cases, one dedicated to music,...
...another to implements used at the mission and one containing an assortment of items including the original wooden St. Benedict statue, remember you saw the replica in the niche on the bell tower wall.
The displays in this room also house a number of woodcarvings done by Native Americans,...
...a wooden confessional and a leather arm shield worn by a member of the Portola Expedition.
The next two rooms, which were
originally the padre cells, are now the Book Room and Library.
Considered California’s first library, the
majority of the books were brought here by Fr. Serra with the oldest dating to
1511.
Across from the padre’s cell is
the kitchen. There are a few things of interest in here.
The unplastered
portion of the wall is the only original adobe wall left in this section of the
building. In front of this wall is a distillado or water purifier and metate for grinding corn and grain.
The stone lavabo or basin on the left wall is
believed to have been used to wash dishes.
Logs were placed underneath to heat the water.
Across from the dining room is the sala or living
room which features an original tile floor.
On the walls of the
hallway leading to Fr. Serra’s cell are glass cases containing significant
artifacts. One display tells the story of California's Plymouth Rock, or what is known as the Vizcaino-Serra Oak Tree.
In this hallway you will also find glass displays pertaining specifically to Fr. Serra, one with his portraits, another with fragments of his stole, his cross, bible and reliquary.
The reliquary, which is a container for holy items (pictured below), is assumed to have been made by Native craftsman. The border patterns features wheat and grapes which represent the bread and wine of the Eucharist.
Although nothing in the room is original, Downie referred to Fr. Palou’s biography of Serra for the description of the room. Palou wrote of a small cell that contained a rush stool and bed of rough boards covered by a blanket.
Exit the Convento Museum to the right of Serra's cell into the Mission Gift Shop. Take some time to browse through the Gift Shop for souvenirs then exit the front door and turn left. I will meet back up with you in front of the gate to the Mission Courtyard.
I hope you enjoyed your tour of
the Carmel Mission. Founded in 1771, added to the National Registrar of
Historic places in 1966 and numerous renovations later, the Mission’s
structures are still in critical need of repair and restoration.
The next project to be taken on by the Carmel Mission Foundation will be northeast quadrant of the mission which includes the Convento Museum and front entrance. Next time you visit you will probably enjoy a much more state-of- the-art museum experience.
Now with the gate to your left
walk straight across the parking lot and turn left onto Lasuen Drive, we are
headed back to the Mission Ranch.
As you exit the parking lot, turn left onto Lasuen Drive. Walk as close to the left side of the street as possible and pay attention to the traffic coming from both directions.
As you walk you will be able to
look over the fence into the Mission Courtyard and Mission Cemetery.
Continue past the parking lot of
Crespi Hall and veer left on Lasuen. Keep walking, staying to the left side of
the street and watch for traffic coming from both directions.
Veer right and continue walking as we are coming to the end of our tour. I would like to take this time to thank you for joining us today and let you know that we have quite a number of walking tours of both Carmel-by-the-Sea and Monterey.
A few of our more popular tours are Carmel Fairy Tale Houses, Downtown Carmel In One Hour, and Cannery Row.
There are also some driving tours, our most recent which features a number of California State Parks from Carmel to southern Big Sur will be available mid-summer 2020. You will find them all listed under VoiceMap Monterey Peninsula.
Continue following this road along
the Mission Ranch tennis courts.
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All pictures and video by L. A. Momboisse unless listed below:
Black and White photo of Martin farmhouse with Elizabeth Martin (sitting). (De Voe, Marcia. "The Martins and The Hattons." Carmel-by-the-Sea, 1979, pg 14)
Juan Rodriquez Cabrillo (Wikipedia)
Frank Devendorf and Frank Powers in a buggy - (courtesy of Jack Galante and the Jane Galante Collection)
Carmel Hill 1908 (Harrison Memorial Library Local History Department)
Carmel Mission in ruins c. 1880 picture taken at the Colton Hall Museum, Monterey
Carmel Development Company flyer, c. 1909 (Devendorf files Harrison Memorial Library Local History Department)
Munras Museum Entrance (Inns of Monterey)
If you are interested in this walking tour as an audio tour, our companion audio tour is now available on VoiceMap. Tours are listed under Monterey Peninsula. To use VoiceMap, you will need to download the VoiceMap app from the Apple Store or Google Play. The app is free, there is a cost for the tour. Happy Adventures and enjoy the tour!
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This Carmel-by-the-Sea: Mission Ranch, Mission Trails Park and Mission Basilica Walking Tour is a collaboration by Carmel Residents Association members Lynn Momboisse and Dale Byrne. As members of the Carmel Residents Association, we are both dedicated to keeping Carmel-by-the-Sea a unique Village in a Forest and excited to share our knowledge of its history and illustrious past with visitors and residents alike.
Mission Ranch
This walking tour will cover the three mission areas of
Carmel-by-the-Sea, Mission Ranch, Mission Trails Park and Carmel Mission
Basilica. Our tour will begin and end at
the historic Mission Ranch hotel owned by actor and former mayor of
Carmel, Clint Eastwood.
We will be joining you on this tour, giving you background, history and what to look for while you walk the grounds and tour the museums and Basilica. It will almost be like having a personal Mission docent accompanying you.
View from back of Flanders Mansion
From Mission Ranch we will wind our way through the
southern end of the village of Carmel-by-the-Sea to Mission Trails Park, explore the grounds of Flanders Mansion and
then to Carmel Mission Basilica where you will have the option, for an admission cost
of $10 per person, to take a self-guided tour of the grounds, Basilica and
museums.We will be joining you on this tour, giving you background, history and what to look for while you walk the grounds and tour the museums and Basilica. It will almost be like having a personal Mission docent accompanying you.
On this tour you’ll hear about:
- Early local Native American history
- Early local California history
- The early history of Carmel-by-the-Sea and its founders
- History of Carmel Mission and its artifacts
- Famous Carmel houses and hotels
- Carmel’s architectural styles from mission to modern
- Interesting Carmel residents from Junipero Serra to Clint Eastwood and more
- The habitats and flora of Mission Trails Park
This tour is between
2 ½ miles and 3 miles depending upon whether you choose to explore the Carmel
Mission grounds and museums. It will
take between 2 to 3 hours to walk. One
hour alone should be set aside for the Carmel Mission and grounds.
View from Mission Ranch Patio Barn
Depending on the time of year you are taking this tour you will have different kinds of weather and different kinds of views and experiences. During our summer months of May through August the weather can be quite foggy. This means that you may not see as far along the coast as you would on clear days. During the early spring, March to April and fall, September to October, the weather here is often crystal clear. At this time you will most certainly have a stellar view just about everywhere on the coast. Both foggy days and clear days are quite fantastic, each in their own way. Okay it is time to get this tour underway.
26270 Dolores Street
Our tour begins at the Mission Ranch sign located at 26270 Dolores Street in Carmel. The sign will be to the left of a wooden wagon decorated with flowers and sheltered by a canopy of century old eucalyptus trees.
Now turn right at the driveway and enter the parking area of Mission Ranch. Make note of the two-story farmhouse directly
to your right after you enter the hotel grounds. There is a sign in front that reads The
Farmhouse 1850. Park your car somewhere in the Mission Ranch parking lot or adjacent Tennis Club, cover
valuables, lock the doors and walk over to The Farmhouse 1850 sign. I will catch up with you there and we will
begin the walking portion of our tour.
The Farmhouse 1850
Stop here in front of the The Farmhouse 1850 sign while I give you a brief history of this property.
Carmel River Wetlands
In August of
1771, Father Junipero Serra moved his mission church from the Presidio in Monterey to the
fertile land near the mouth of the Carmel River, less than a half mile from what would become Mission Ranch. The Carmel Mission
community would use the surrounding acres for farming and grazing.
In 1834, after the Mexican government secularized the missions, the mission land was divided into land grants. The 160 acres around Carmel Mission was acquired by Juan Romero.
Romero deeded these acres to William Curtis, a Monterey store owner, for $300 in 1852 and four
years later Mr. Curtis sold the property to one of his clerks, Mr.
Loveland.
In 1859, John Martin, who along with his brother Robert raised stock for dairy on their property near the Salinas, purchased the property. It was here, in the early 1870s, that the brother’s opened their dairy.
In 1859, John Martin, who along with his brother Robert raised stock for dairy on their property near the Salinas, purchased the property. It was here, in the early 1870s, that the brother’s opened their dairy.
Martin farmhouse (De Voe, Marcia. "The Martins and The Hattons.")
In 1871 John, his
wife and three children moved into the one-story farmhouse on the property. A
second floor was added as the Martin family grew to nine members and this is
the farmhouse that stands in front of you now. It was John who gave the property the name Mission Ranch due to its proximity to the Carmel Mission.
Today as part of the Mission
Ranch complex, this building consists of six quaint bedrooms, a delightful
common living area with a fireplace
and baby grand piano for spontaneous sing alongs. It is perfect for family reunions or wedding parties.
and baby grand piano for spontaneous sing alongs. It is perfect for family reunions or wedding parties.
Now with the farmhouse
in front of you, turn to your left and walk to the little cottage next door.
This is Honeymoon Cottage and was featured in A Summer Place staring Sandra Dee and Troy Donahue. Continue walking to the building next door, labeled Office.
Warner Bros. Movie Poster A Summer Place (Architectural Digest)
This is Honeymoon Cottage and was featured in A Summer Place staring Sandra Dee and Troy Donahue. Continue walking to the building next door, labeled Office.
Enter the Office,
which acts as the lobby for Mission Ranch hotel, and pick up a brochure on this
lodge. They also sell items here which
make nice souvenirs and gifts. Once you have checked out the office lobby, exit
this building and walk straight across the parking lot toward the long one story
building covered by a perfectly manicured hedge.
This structure was originally the Martin’s milking
barn. Today, known as the Patio Barn, with a fully renovated stage...
...and large rustic bar, it is used for corporate
events and wedding receptions.
To the left of the Patio Barn, in front of the Mission Ranch Dining Room, is a sitting area with a bench. Have a seat there and I will continue the story of this remarkable property.
To the left of the Patio Barn, in front of the Mission Ranch Dining Room, is a sitting area with a bench. Have a seat there and I will continue the story of this remarkable property.
The Mission Ranch Dining Room was originally the Martin
dairy creamery, and supplied cheese and butter to Monterey.
Mission Ranch Dinning Room Patio
The Martin family
worked this land for almost 60 years, selling the ranch and surrounding acres in 1918 to wealthy San
Francisco socialites Mr. and Mrs. Willis J. Walker for $150,000. Mrs. Walker gave a small piece of this
property to her sister Della Walker. Della's husband was Willis' brother, so that is why the same last name.
Della then hired renowned architect Frank Lloyd Wright to design her Cabin on the Rocks in 1952. This home is located at the southern end of
Carmel Beach and you may visit it by taking our VoiceMap Scenic Road or CarmelPoint walking tour. It too was featured in A Summer Place.
Cabin on the Rocks designed by Frank Lloyd Wright
Anyway back to
the story. The Walker’s had no interest in farming so they turned the old dairy
into a private riding club. The large
barn, now used for the office was built to board the horses.
From 1926 to 1936, Muriel Vanderbilt Phelps leased the barn and used it as a breeding farm for thoroughbred horses. Finally the horse operation was moved to Carmel Valley where
there was more interest in equestrian activities.
Muriel Vanderbilt Phelps (Wikipedia)
In 1936, Mrs. Walker added a
swimming pool, tennis and badminton court to the property. The horse barn
became a clubhouse and the old milking barn a swingin’ dance hall. For a few years the club saw marginal
success, but as interest waned, the property fell into disrepair.
In
1940, the Dienelt’s purchased the ranch tract from the Walker estate for
$40,000, renovated the site and opened it once again as a recreation club. This
time it was quite popular.
20,000 $1 memberships were sold and the club operated for the next 40 years. During this time period a dinner house with piano bar opened on the site and it became the place Carmelites referred to when they said, “See you at the Ranch”.
20,000 $1 memberships were sold and the club operated for the next 40 years. During this time period a dinner house with piano bar opened on the site and it became the place Carmelites referred to when they said, “See you at the Ranch”.
During
World War II and the Korean War, the Patio Barn was used as an Officer’s Club
for the Army and Navy. With its bar,
stage and dance floor, it proved quite a popular night spot for off duty
service men and women.
In
1950, off duty from Fort Ord, twenty-one year old Clint Eastwood made his way
to Mission Ranch and it was love at first sight.
Clint
described it this way, “The first time I saw the place I thought it was
terrific. Visually it was something
else, and I thought it was the place I’d like to call home. So I kind of adopted Carmel”.
Now
we are going to get moving again but before we do, wander over to the front
door of the Mission Ranch Dining Room and check out the menu. Also take note of the Historic Preservation
Award plaque presented to Mission Ranch by the Carmel Heritage Society in
1992. More on that at our next stop. For now with the front door of the dining
room behind you walk out to the parking lot and turn right. Walk past the garbage area to the lawn
area. To your right you will see a white
fence and an old wagon wheel. That wagon
wheel is our next stop.
Stop
here for a moment and enjoy the view across the sheep grazing area. If you look toward the coast, that will be Point Lobos State Natural Reserve in the distance.
In
the early 1980’s the Dienelt Family sold this property to the Mission Ranch
Corporation, a group of professionals, most who lived in the San Francisco Bay
Area, for $3 million.
In
1984 the Mission Ranch Corporation won a decision to rezone the property for
the building of a 60 plus unit residential development. The City of Carmel filed a lawsuit to block the
development and entered into talks with the corporation to purchase the
property. With the sales price set at $6.5
million, the City made its best offer at $3.75 million. It was rejected.
Enter Marjorie Lloyd and Helen Wilson of Carmel Heritage Society who asked Clint
Eastwood if perhaps he might get some friends together and form a group that
would purchase the Mission Ranch so that it could be preserved.
Marjory Lloyd, Virginia Stanton, and Helen Wilson. (The Herald 11/27/1990)
Mission Ranch Cottages behind the bunkhouse in (Pine Cone 1986)
Clint
reported back to Helen and Marjorie that he was not able to find anyone to invest
with him in the purchase of the property.
“But,” he said, “I will buy the Ranch and it will be
preserved”.
Scottish Blackface Sheep
Now
before we carry on to just one more stop at Mission Ranch, take a look at those
sheep grazing in the pasture in front of you, they are Scottish Blackface sheep. In order to increase the original
herd of ewes, Clint introduced a ram to the group in 2015. The ram performed as Clint had hoped, and the
following spring 15 new lambs were born.
Now
with the sheep behind you walk back out to the parking lot, turn right and walk to
the bunkhouse. It stands beneath towering
eucalyptus trees and is across from The Farmhouse.
In December 1986,
then mayor of Carmel-by-the-Sea, Clint Eastwood purchased Mission Ranch under
the umbrella of one of his companies, Tehama Productions, Inc. He vowed to keep the buildings and the
grounds as they were, except for upgrading of the plumbing and electrical and
the eviction of the termite population.
Which, according to Eastwood, were “keeping some buildings standing by
holding hands”.
Clint Eastwood
and Carmel Development Co., virtually rebuilt the white clapboard dairy ranch, preserving the flavor and facades that date back to the 1850s, thus keeping the
Mission Ranch essentially, “locked in time”.
Continue walking
straight and exit the Mission Ranch driveway and turn left on to Dolores Street.
As you walk between stops on this
tour, I will weave together an outline of early California and Carmel history
as well as the history of the Carmel Mission Basilica.
Now continue walking and cross 14th Avenue while I will start this fascinating story from the beginning.
Now continue walking and cross 14th Avenue while I will start this fascinating story from the beginning.
Rumsien people at Mission San Carlos Borroméo (Tomas de Suria or Jose Cardero, 1791 / Wikipedia)
Before the Spaniards arrived in this
area, Central California had the densest Native American population north of
Mexico. Living along the coast between Point Sur and San Francisco, they
belonged to forty different groups, each with its own territory and chief.
The Rumsien inhabited the Carmel area and were one of eight groups of the Ohlone people. They devised a number of tools to help them obtain and process food. Arrowheads and knives were made from obsidian and stones became hammers and receptacles for grinding. Existing off an abundance of fish and wildlife, the Rumsien men's bow was one of the most valuable belongings he had.
Working with the materials available to them, the Rumsien devised clothing to suit their needs. The men usually went unclothed or in winter covered themselves with rabbit or otter skin. Women wore skirts made of tule reeds in front and buckskin or otter in back.
Most of the Rumsien people lived in either a dome-shaped home of tule reeds of straw, or a cone shaped house made of split redwood or redwood bark. Inside they slept on tule mats and used animals skins for warmth.
These people would be the first Native Americans to be seen and documented by the Spanish explorers when they arrived in Northern California.
Ohlone (painting by Louis Choris, Wikipedia)
The Rumsien inhabited the Carmel area and were one of eight groups of the Ohlone people. They devised a number of tools to help them obtain and process food. Arrowheads and knives were made from obsidian and stones became hammers and receptacles for grinding. Existing off an abundance of fish and wildlife, the Rumsien men's bow was one of the most valuable belongings he had.
Rumsien exhibit Pacific House Museum - Monterey
Rumsien exhibit Pacific House Museum - Monterey
Rumsien exhibit Pacific House Museum - Monterey
These people would be the first Native Americans to be seen and documented by the Spanish explorers when they arrived in Northern California.
Juan Rodriquez Cabrillo (Wikipedia)
In 1542, Spanish explorer Juan
Rodriquez Cabrillo was credited as the first European to visit this area of
Central California. Upon entering what would become Monterey Bay he named it
“Bahia de Los Pinos” or Bay of the Pines.
Corner of Dolores and Franciscan
Now as you come to the corner of Dolores and Franciscan, turn right and continue
walking along Franciscan. Stay to the
right side of the street while I continue with the story.
Mass in Monterey during Vizcaino Expedition 1602 (Leon Trousset from 1877)
Sixty years would pass before another
Spanish explorer would actually land at “Bahia de Los Pinos” and claim the
region for Spain in 1602. That year, Sebastian Vizcaino found this harbor as described by Cabrillo to be "excellent, secure against winds with an infinite number of very large pines."
Vizcaino renamed the area Puerto de Monterey in honor of the viceroy of New Spain. In his diary Vizcaino wrote that “his men built a shelter under a great oak near the shore” where the three Carmelite friars who had accompanied him celebrated Mass. You will have the opportunity to see a piece of this tree in the Convento Museum at Carmel Mission.
Vizcaino renamed the area Puerto de Monterey in honor of the viceroy of New Spain. In his diary Vizcaino wrote that “his men built a shelter under a great oak near the shore” where the three Carmelite friars who had accompanied him celebrated Mass. You will have the opportunity to see a piece of this tree in the Convento Museum at Carmel Mission.
Carmel River Beach mouth of Carmel River
Vizcaino explored the area near
Monterey and found another good harbor just over the hill at the mouth of a
small river. He named this “El Rio Carmelo” in honor of the Carmelite friars.
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Now let me bring you back to the present time for a moment. As you walk along Franciscan, take a look to your left across the street at the gray two story house with a covered balcony over the garage. The address is 2969 Franciscan. 
2969 Franciscan
This home, which was designed and
built by Jon Konigshofer in 1948, is one of the best remaining examples in Carmel of his
trademarked "Hillside House." This Second Bay Region style worked well with Carmel’s narrow slopped
lots. The style, which proved very popular after WWII, has its roots in San Francisco and the greater Bay Area, and features sleek
lines and prefabricated materials.
Although never licensed as an architect, Jon is credited with over 150 buildings, both residential and commercial on the Monterey Peninsula. This particular house was at one time the residence of Keith Evans who was active in community affairs and mayor of Carmel-by-the-Sea from 1940 to 1942.
Although never licensed as an architect, Jon is credited with over 150 buildings, both residential and commercial on the Monterey Peninsula. This particular house was at one time the residence of Keith Evans who was active in community affairs and mayor of Carmel-by-the-Sea from 1940 to 1942.
Now continue walking to the house just
next door.
2981 Franciscan Way designed by Julia Morgan
This Minimum Traditional style home
on the hillside overlooking Carmel Mission was built in 1940 by California’s
first licensed female architect, Julia Morgan for Dr. Emma Whitman Pope. Dr. Pope was a
friend of Ms. Morgan’s from her undergraduate years at U. C. Berkeley.
Dr. Pope’s daughter Virginia married Keith Evans and they lived in the house next door that you just viewed. Keith and Virginia owned and operated the Plaza Fuel and Supply Company, which was located at Junipero and Sixth, it is now the location of Bruno’s Market and Surf’n’ Sand.
Now continue walking and follow Franciscan as it veers left while I tell you about Julia Morgan.
Dr. Pope’s daughter Virginia married Keith Evans and they lived in the house next door that you just viewed. Keith and Virginia owned and operated the Plaza Fuel and Supply Company, which was located at Junipero and Sixth, it is now the location of Bruno’s Market and Surf’n’ Sand.
Now continue walking and follow Franciscan as it veers left while I tell you about Julia Morgan.
Julia Morgan (Wikipedia)
Ms. Morgan was born in 1872, and as
well as designing two homes in Carmel, (the other is on Carmelo and 15th) she designed the YWCA Leadership Camp
now known as Asilomar Conference Grounds in Pacific Grove between 1913 and
1928.
Thirteen of her original
structures remain there today and constitute her largest collection of Arts and
Crafts style architecture in one location. One of those, the Merrill Hall Auditorium, shown in the picture above.
Merrill Hall Auditorium Asilomar (Julia Morgan 1928, Wikipedia)
Hearst Castle (2017)
She is best known for her work on
Hearst Castle in San Simeon, California.
After designing more than 700 buildings in California, Ms. Morgan died
in 1957.
At the corner of Franciscan, turn right and continue
straight along Santa Lucia. Stay to the
right side of the street. As you walk, I will continue with the story of the history of this area.
After Visciano claimed the land for Spain in 1602, it would be another 160 plus years before Spain would be back in Monterey Bay.
After Visciano claimed the land for Spain in 1602, it would be another 160 plus years before Spain would be back in Monterey Bay.
Fr. Junipero Serra photo taken at Convento Museum Carmel Mission
By the late 1760s Spanish king Charles
III, after realizing the importance the Pacific coast of North America would
have on trade, decided to settle the coastline. In 1768 Alta California’s
inspector general Jose de Galvez organized the Portola Expedition that would
establish colonies and missions at San Diego, Monterey Bay and beyond. Gaspar
de Portola was charged with creating the presidios, and pueblos and Franciscan
priest, Fr. Junipero Serra, was charged with the creation of the missions.
Gaspar de Portola Arrives in Monterey painting by Alexander F. Harmer (public domain)
After establishing the Presidio and Mission San Diego in 1769, Portola and Serra continued north and established
the Presidio of Monterey and Mission San Carlos de Borromeo in Monterey on June
3, 1770.
A year later, in order to
provide a safer political environment and better more fertile agricultural
opportunities for his mission Fr. Serra moved Mission San Carlos to its present
location near the mouth of the El Rio Carmelo. Commonly called the Carmel Mission, the first
mission structure consisted of a brush hut, a wooden cross and church
bells.
Juan Bautista de Anza (portrait in oil by Fray Orsi in 1774 / Wikipedia)
In 1777, Juan Batista de Anza brought
soldiers and colonists to Monterey and a year later Monterey would be declared
the official capital of Alta California. Spanish rule reigned until 1821 when Mexico
would take control and govern from 1822 to 1846.
***
Back to the present for a moment again. As you come to the corner of Santa Lucia and Junipero, stop and turn to the left. Across the street there is a metal post with a rusted mission bell on top. These Mission Bell Markers line the historic El Camino Real. 
Mission Bell Marker (Wikipedia)
Spanish for The Royal Road, this 700 mile California Mission Trail connects 21 mission, 4 presidios and several pueblos from Mission San Diego de Alcala in the south to Mission San Francisco Solano in the north.
The Kings Highway El Camino Real (The California Missions)
In order to facilitate overland travel during early mission days these settlements were situated approximately 30 miles apart, or what was considered a day’s journey by horseback.
The original Mission Bell Marker system
established in 1906, called for installation of these bells one mile apart
along the El Camino Real highway. Over the years many were removed due to
damage, vandalism or theft. In 1974, the California Legislature appointed the
California Department of Transportation, Caltrans, the responsible party for
repairing and replacing the bells. Today there are more than 380 bells marking
the old highway and its branches.
Now carefully cross Santa Lucia at the
crosswalk. When you get to the other
side of the street, turn left and continue walking straight along Santa Lucia
staying to the right side of the street.
Take a look to your right. Do you see the metal gate in front of the two-story
Spanish style home with the tile roof?
This home was built in 1959 for Maria
Antonia Field, the great-granddaughter of Esteban Munras and Catalina
Manzaneli. The Munras Crest is over the front door.
Esteban was an artist and cattle hide
dealer, quite a combination. A native of
Spain, he immigrated to Monterey where he built one of the first residences
outside the walls of the old Monterey Presidio in 1824. His home known as Casa Munras is now the Casa
Munras Hotel & Spa located on Munras Avenue in Monterey. The last of the
Munras family to live in the Casa Munras was Maria Antonia Field who was born
in the home in 1885 and lived there until 1941.
Former home of Maria Antonia Field 2957 Santa Lucia (real estate listing)
Maria’s former home here on Santa
Lucia last sold in 2015 for $1.84 million dollars.
Now continue walking straight on Santa
Lucia. Stay to the right side of the street,
while I continue with Maria’s story.
Quite involved with the renovation and
restoration of her parish, the Carmel Mission, Maria authored the book Chimes of Mission Bells, about its
history. When she died in 1962, her estate became the major donor of the
contents of the Munras Museum. She was buried in the Mission Cemetery and we
will have the opportunity to visit her grave and the Munras Museum later on
this tour.
At the corner, turn right and continue
walking straight on Mission Street, stay to the left side.
While you walk, I will wrap up the account
of early California history. We left off at the end of Mexican rule in
1846.
Painting Battle Of Monterey c 1855 - anonymous - Public Domain
Santiago Duckworth overlooking Carmel City (1890 by C.W.J. Johnson - Harrison Memorial Library)
Now let’s turn our attention to
Carmel-by-the-Sea. The future of this
village began in the late 1880s, when Santiago J. Duckworth purchased 324 acres
of land from Honore Escolle for a proposed Catholic Summer Resort. Duckworth filed a subdivision map and called
the area Carmel City. Corner lots were sold
for $25, others went for $20 and business lots were priced at $50.
Advertisement for Carmel City Catholic Summer Resort c. 1889 (Harrison Memorial Library Local History Branch)
In 1889 Abbie Jane Hunter joined
Duckworth. She established a real estate
investment company, opened a bathhouse on Carmel’s beach, and was instrumental
in establishing the first hotel in Carmel.
She was also the first one to promote Carmel City in newspaper
advertisements and post card mailers as Carmel-by-the-Sea.
Unfortunately Duckworth and Hunter’s
vision of a Catholic Summer Resort failed and Duckworth signed over all his
unsold lots back to Escolle.
Now hold that thought as I bring you back to the present time again. I have another interesting house I want to point out.
***
Now hold that thought as I bring you back to the present time again. I have another interesting house I want to point out.
Gate to Banyan Hideaway
Up ahead of you, slightly to your left, you will come to a crosswalk. Use this to cross 13th Avenue. After crossing 13th turn right and use the crosswalk to cross Mission Street.
At the end of the driveway to the left of the crosswalk, do you see the metal gate which features sun rays shining down on a bonsai-style banyan tree? Stop here for a moment off to the side of the driveway while I tell you about this unique home.
This house, as well as the one next
door to the right, was designed and built by architect Mark Mills. Mark, a student of Frank Lloyd Wright at
Taliesin West in Arizona from 1944 to 1948, came to Carmel in the early 1950s
to help contractor Miles Bain with the construction of Della Walker’s house.
Remember, I told you about Della's Cabin on the Rocks earlier on this tour, it was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.
Remember, I told you about Della's Cabin on the Rocks earlier on this tour, it was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.
A-frame Banyan Hideaway
After the completion of her home, Della offered Mark the opportunity to plan and build two homes in Carmel for
speculation. The A-frame here in front of you called Banyan Hideaway built in 1952 was the first of these homes. The
structures concrete walls and posts use the “desert-masonry” concept Mark
perfected while he apprenticed at Taliesin West.
Desert masonry inside Banyan Hideaway
As you face the driveway, turn to your
left and continue walking. Stay to the right side of the street and I will continue with the narrative of early Carmel history.
We left off after Duckworth signed all of his unsold Carmel lots back to Escolle in 1892. Well Escolle, who had began to think the lots held no value, sold most of the property to Dr. Walton Saunders three years later.
We left off after Duckworth signed all of his unsold Carmel lots back to Escolle in 1892. Well Escolle, who had began to think the lots held no value, sold most of the property to Dr. Walton Saunders three years later.
Frank Devendorf and Frank Powers (courtesy of Jack Galante and the Jane Galante Collection)
Then along came Frank
Devendorf and Frank Powers, the two men who would turn Carmel-by-the-Sea into a
village with a charming character like no other.
***
At the corner
continue straight and cross 12th Avenue.
Intersection of Mission and 12th
Like many
stories, fate played a major role in the partnership between Frank Devendorf
and Frank Powers.
Carmel Hill 1908 (Harrison Memorial Library Local History Department)
In 1900, Powers,
a partner in a San Francisco law firm, received a parcel of land in Carmel in
lieu of cash for a legal bill. Not
knowing what the value might be, he took the train to Monterey, and the
stagecoach over Carmel Hill and camped out near the ruins of Carmel
Mission.
The next day he toured the
area, wandered through the fog down to the beach and realized that this was a
very special place and there just might be some value to the property.
Carmel Mission in ruins, c. 1880 (Picture taken at Colton Hall Museum, Monterey)
***
At the corner
turn right on to 11th and keep walking. Stay to the left side of the street.
Intersection of Mission and 11th
In November of
1900, Powers purchased all of Dr. Saunders as well as Escolle’s Carmel lots and
by 1902 he had amassed 80% of the property that made up Carmel-by-the-Sea.
Now Power’s
needed a business partner, and that is where Frank Devendorf comes in.
In the summer of
1900, Devendorf brought his wife and daughters to Carmel from San Jose for a
picnic. As he looked upon the curving
white sand of Carmel Beach, he said, “Girls, I’m going to build a town there!”
***
Now there is more to
this story but first we have a tricky street crossing up at the end of this
block. So I will need your full attention.
Looking toward the median strip
Stop at the
corner here of 11th Avenue and Junipero. You should be on the left
side of the street. Look ahead of you to
the median strip that separates the two lanes of traffic. When it is safe to do so, carefully cross to
the median directly ahead and to your left. I put a picture of the location above.
At the median looking straight to homes
Stop at the
median and look straight ahead toward the homes. There will be a low wooden fence ahead of
you. Take a look to the left and make a note of where the fence ends. That is where 11th Avenue meets
back up with Junipero.
11th is one-way at this location and there will be a Do
Not Enter sign for car traffic at the end of the fence. When it is safe to do so, cross the other
half of Junipero, walk to your left to the end of the wooden fence then turn right
on to 11th Avenue.
Do Not Enter Sign on 11th
Back on 11th Avenue
Walk straight
past the sign that reads Do Not Enter One Way and you are back on 11th. Continue straight and stay to the right side of the street while I finish telling you about Powers and Devendorf.
Carmel Development Company flyer, c. 1909 (Devendorf files Harrison Memorial Library History Department)
It is not known
exactly how they met but both had a vision for Carmel, and each had the unique
skills necessary to bring that vision into reality.
In November of 1902 the two formed the Carmel Development Company and opened an office on Ocean Avenue. Powers put up the capital and Devendorf put in the man-hours selling and managing the sale of the lots.
In November of 1902 the two formed the Carmel Development Company and opened an office on Ocean Avenue. Powers put up the capital and Devendorf put in the man-hours selling and managing the sale of the lots.
Initially lot
sales were slow, but by November 1904, the total value of lots sold in Carmel was
a promising $63,000. You may see and
learn more about Carmel-by-the-Sea on our VoiceMap walking tour, Downtown Carmel in One Hour.
***
When you come to
the T intersection turn to your left and carefully cross over 11th
and walk up Torres Street. Stay to the
right side of the street. Our next stop will be the former home of the Countess
Kinnoull.
Do you see the
stone driveway to your right? You can
walk up to the iron gate to get a good look at the stucco Spanish
Eclectic-style home, but please stay behind the gate on the street
side. This estate sits on 1 ½ acres of
land and was built in 1925 for Col. Henry L. Watson.
The Colonel was a
1907 graduate of West Point. A skilled
pilot, he led the first flight over the Sierra Nevada Mountains and instituted
the aerial patrols of the National Forests during World War I. After retiring in 1922 he brought his family
to Carmel and took up residence in this home.
In 1948 the property was sold to Countess Kinnoull. Born Enid Hamilton-Fellow, the only child of Ernest Gaddesden Fellows and Margaret Hamilton Wills, a wealthy British family, Margaret’s father was Sir Frederick Wills, a founder of one of the world’s largest tobacco companies, The Imperial Group.
George Hay the 14th Earl of Kinnoull (Wikipedia)
Enid acquired her
title of Countess when she married George Hay the 14th Earl of
Kinnoull Scotland in 1923. The marriage
lasted only four years and she never remarried.
Before fleeing
France when the German’s invaded during World War II, the Countess competed in
world-class sports car racing events, brought medical supplies to Catholic
missions in Africa, founded a hospice for the poor and dying in Paris and
studied art in Spain. Quite the resume.
The Countess
chose Carmel as her home after learning that it was an artist colony. She lived
in this large estate until her death in 1985. Besides devoting much of her resources to the
SPCA, and painting a portrait of Robinson Jeffers that currently hangs in the
Tor House, she was known as one of the more vocal residents at Carmel City Council
meetings, always influencing opinion against any attempts to bring
commercialization to the village.
Now turn around
and walk back down the driveway then turn left and walk back in the direction
you came. When you get to 11th turn left and continue up the
street. We are going to walk around the
wall of this massive property.
The
current owners of this estate purchased the property in 1994 and spent many
years restoring it to its current pristine condition.
Norfolk Island pine tree
Tilted Column by Albert Paley
As you walk along
the perimeter of this home you may be able to see some of the spectacular
garden area over the stucco wall. Look
for the tall Norfolk Island pine tree, and large rust colored sculpture called Tilted Column by Albert Paley. There is also a small version of the Carmel
Mission fountain in the rose garden.
Continue walking
and you will pass a much smaller wooden house on your left. 11th
Avenue ends here at the entrance to Mission Trails Park, which is our next
destination.
Do you see an
iron gate up ahead? There is a foot entrance here for Mission Trails Park.
Enter the park and continue walking straight on what is
called Willow Trail.
Do you see the
wooden bridge ahead? Turn left, cross
this bridge and keep walking straight a short distance to the next wooden
bridge.
Cross that bridge too and turn left onto the main trail in the park,
Serra Trail.
This trail is named for Fr. Junipero Serra and actually marks the
footsteps of the Franciscan fathers. Back
in the late 1700s and early 1800s the priests walked the five miles between the
Presidio Chapel in Monterey and the Carmel Mission to say Mass. Along the path, through what was then a dense
forest of pines, the padres placed crosses to mark the 14 Stations of the
Cross.
Looking back to Willow Trail from Serra Trail
Now let’s fast
forward from Fr. Serra's time to 1972. This was the year that
the City of Carmel purchased this land from the Doolittle and Flanders Estates
for $400,000. The following year, these
40 acres would become Carmel’s largest park and open space, Mission Trail Nature
Preserve.
As you walk
through the park take note of the trees that surround you. The park’s five
miles of walking trails wind through habitats which include a
Monterey pine forest, a coast live oak woodland, a wetland, willow riparian corridor
and a coastal prairie.
Continue walking
and keep a look out for the Flanders Trail sign. This will be our next turn.
Turn right onto this trail and keep walking. Continue past the next trail sign. There will be an arrow
pointing right, do not take that, just keep walking straight on this trail up the hill.
The trail has another fork to the right, do not take this fork, keep walking straight up the hill to the Flanders Mansion driveway.
As you enter the
driveway turn to your left (away from the house) and follow the driveway around the circular planter
and then right back toward the house.
Stop here for a
moment and have a seat on the stone wall that surrounds the circular planter in
the middle of the driveway. I want to
tell you about the Lester Rowntree Native Plant Garden which is just ahead of
you behind the wooden grape stake fence.
Lester Rowntree Garden (Carmel-by-the-Sea Watch Dog 2008)
Born Gertrude
Ellen Lester in England in 1879, she immigrated with her family to the United
States in 1887 and married Bernard Rowntree in 1908 thereafter being known by
the name Lester Rowntree.
In 1926, the couple settled in a home on three acres of land in the Carmel
Highlands. Here Lester began to collect
and study wildflowers and her hillside garden in the Highlands became world
famous for a time.
She published some
700 articles and authored two books, Hardy
Californians and Flowering Shrubs of
California, which recorded her observations of California’s native flora.
Lester, a field botanist, horticulturist and writer, died in 1979 just five days
after her one-hundredth birthday.
Hardy Californians (Amazon)
Her son Cedric,
carried on her passion for preserving the environment through native
plants. In 1980 along with the help of
the California Native Plant Society, he created this small native plant garden
here on the grounds of Flanders Mansion.
It contains over 100 native annuals, perennials, bulbs and succulents.
Okay it is time
to get moving again. Continue walking to
your right around this circular planter back toward Flanders Mansion.
Front of Flanders Mansion
Stop here in
front of Flanders Mansion while I give you a little background on this unique property.
As I mentioned
before, between 1834 and 1836, the Mexican government secularized, then seized
the land around the 21 missions the Franciscan padres had created since 1769 in
Alta California.
The land was then
auctioned, sold or distributed to citizens in the form of Land Grants. The one located here was called Canada de la
Segunda and was granted to Lazaro Soto, a soldier in the Mexican Army in
1839. For the next eight decades this land was sold a number of times until finally in 1925 it was purchased for
$100,000 by Paul and Grace Flanders.
Paul, a retired
WWI Naval officer, and his wife Grace had arrived in Carmel three years
earlier. They hired distinguished San
Francisco architect, Henry Higby Gutterson, to design their home which they
called, Outlands, because of its then
distant proximity to the village of Carmel-by-the-Sea.
Gutterson designed this Tudor Revival-style home with a unique system of interlocking concrete wall blocks, which were essentially fireproof and waterproof. The blocks were produced locally and known as Carmel Thermotite. Outlands was completed in 1925 at a cost of $17,500.
Now walk over to
the windows just to the left of the front door.
They are surrounded by ivy.
If you carefully press your nose up against the window you can see inside.
This is the main living room, which features solid teak floors.
Next turn to your right and walk past the wooden arched door. When you come to the end of the house turn left and follow the stone path to the back yard.
If you carefully press your nose up against the window you can see inside.
This is the main living room, which features solid teak floors.
Doors lead to Dining
The multi-paneled half circle walnut wood doors lead to the dining room.
Dining
Stop and
take a peek through the windows on the side of the mansion. This room was used as a den.
Around the top of the
wall is an interesting mural that was painted in 1933.
I am not sure of its meaning, but there
appears to be a Spanish galleon over the fireplace and caravans traveling over
mountains with cargo along the walls.
Continue
following the stone path around to the back of Flanders Mansion.
Take a look to
your left. Do you see the raised patio
by the entry door? You may walk up the steps and take a peak inside the window. This would have been the main entrance.
Paul and Grace
were well loved in the Carmel community.
They entertained regularly here in their home and in their yard which
had and still has a spectacular view overlooking the Carmel Mission and the sea
beyond. This view is one of my favorites in all of Carmel.
The picture below is c.1926 and shows how different the view was then with less trees.
The picture below is c.1926 and shows how different the view was then with less trees.
Flanders Mansion c. 1926 (City of Carmel-by-the-Sea)
The Flander’s had
one child, Barry, who died in 1933 at 11 years of age. After World War II broke out Paul re-enlisted
in the Navy and oversaw Japanese submarine activity off the west coast. He died in 1944 and Grace lived in the mansion
by herself until her death in 1967.
Okay let’s
continue walking around the parameter of this home. From the porch turn left and continue
walking.
Take a look at the
ground to your left at the cement at the
top of the stairs that lead to a basement door. Those are Barry Flanders foot prints,
imprinted in 1924.
Back door by stairs to basement 2013 (City of Carmel-by-the-Sea)
After the death of Grace in 1967, her beneficiaries developed a plan to subdivide the land and build 64 residential units on the property. The Carmel City Planning Department denied their plan and in 1972 the heirs agreed to sell the property to the City of Carmel for $275,000. This along with the adjacent Doolittle property would, as I mentioned before, become Mission Trail Nature Preserve. In 1989 Flanders Mansion was listed on the National Registrar of Historic Places.
Photo of map taken at Harrison Memorial Library Local History Branch
Okay time to get
moving again. With the basement door
behind you walk straight ahead following the slight path carved out in the
ground that crosses the backyard. Take
in the view while you walk and stop in front of the bench up ahead.
Have a seat for a moment while I finish the story of this home; or rather bring you up to the present day and the continuing saga of Flanders Mansion.
Flanders Mansion,
which lies within the boundaries of the park Preserve, is still owned by the
City of Carmel. Since 1972 the mansion
has had a number of functions, it was at one time the residence of the city
administrator, it was also the home of the Carmel Art Institute. But mostly its role is being one of the most
hotly contested items on the addenda of Carmel City Council.
In 2018 City
Council decided that what Flanders Mansion needed was a curator. Qualifying applicants had to be willing to commit to make
at least $300,000 worth of necessary repairs over the first five years they lived on the property. In exchange they would receive the right to live in
this historic deteriorating mansion rent free for another 15 years after
that.
Eight proposals were received and in April 2019, council narrowed it down to two choices. In May of 2020, after nearly a year of closed-door negotiations with one of the choices, the city's efforts to install them as curators ended in an impasse and the chronicle of Flanders Mansion continues.
Eight proposals were received and in April 2019, council narrowed it down to two choices. In May of 2020, after nearly a year of closed-door negotiations with one of the choices, the city's efforts to install them as curators ended in an impasse and the chronicle of Flanders Mansion continues.
Now it is time to continue walking. Keep going straight ahead following the path cut in the ground by other walkers. As you come to the edge of the Flanders property the path will veer right and continue down the side of the property back to Mission Trails Park.
Up ahead is a brown post with
arrows pointing in the directions of the Rowntree Garden and Mesa Trail.
Keep an eye out for this post.
Stop for a moment
at the Mesa Trail marker and listen to these directions as it gets a bit tricky
here. The Mesa Trail branches in two directions. One direction crosses the back of Flanders Mansion property and one descends the hill to Serra Trail in the park.
Our goal now is to descend this hill back into the park. Do not take the branch of this trail that heads off to the right along the hillside. As we descend this short hill we will be following a series of switch backs. Remember the goal is to descend the hill.
Our goal now is to descend this hill back into the park. Do not take the branch of this trail that heads off to the right along the hillside. As we descend this short hill we will be following a series of switch backs. Remember the goal is to descend the hill.
So enter the Mesa Trail, by making a left then a few yards
ahead a switch to the right ...
...and so on until you get down the hill and back to the main trail. Turn left onto the wide main trail, which is the Serra Trail and keep walking.
As you walk notice the trees and
environment around you. This park has
two distinct habitats. You are currently
in the upper region of the park which is shaded by towering redwoods, pines and
oaks. Soon you will enter the lower region, which will be quite noticeably
different and lighter as the redwoods give way to lower canopy sycamores and
willows that line a small creek.
Continue walking along the Serra Trail,
the path that Father Junipero Serra would walk almost daily while I tell you
about this Spanish friar who founded the first nine of the 21 missions in
California.
Miguel Jose Serra was born in 1713 in
the village of Petra on the island of Majorca off the coast of Spain. He
attended the Franciscan friary, which was only one block from his home and was
educated in reading, writing, mathematics, Latin, religion and liturgical song.
Just prior to his 17th
birthday Serra entered the Franciscan Order and took the religious name of
Junipero in honor of Brother Juniper who had been a companion of St. Francis of
Assisi the founder of the Franciscan order.
Fr. Junipero Serra (Wikipedia)
Serra was ordained a priest at the age
of 24, earned a doctorate in Sacred Theology at 28 and by the age of 35 held
the highest ranking professorship at the University of Majorca.
One year later in 1749 he left Majorca for
Mexico. After an arduous trans-Atlantic
crossing, Serra arrived in Veracruz and though he was provided a horse for the
next part of his journey, he chose to walk the 275 mile stretch of the El Camino
Real to Mexico City.
It was along this way that he was bitten by what was thought to be a mosquito. The bite which became infected plagued Serra for the rest of his life. Undaunted by this nagging injury, for the next 17 years Serra would work as a missionary in Baja California, eventually being appointed President of the Baja peninsula’s fourteen missions.
It was along this way that he was bitten by what was thought to be a mosquito. The bite which became infected plagued Serra for the rest of his life. Undaunted by this nagging injury, for the next 17 years Serra would work as a missionary in Baja California, eventually being appointed President of the Baja peninsula’s fourteen missions.
Painting of Fr. Serra in Mora Chapel Carmel Mission
Though he would go on to establish seven more missions in Alta California before his death in 1784, Carmel Mission would become Serra permanent home, his mission headquarters and eventually his burial site.
***
We are coming to the end of the Serra Trail and will be exiting the park via the footpath to the side of the steel gate.
When you come to the end of the trail,
exit the park and turn left onto what is Rio Road. We are going to the Carmel
Mission but we will use the crosswalk to get across Rio Road. Stay on the shoulder and off the main
road as you walk.
Crosswalk looking back to east side of Rio Road
At the crosswalk ahead, turn right and
cross over Rio Road. When you get to the
other side of the street, turn right and continue walking straight on Rio
toward the Carmel Mission. Stay on the shoulder and off the main road.
Off to your left is a stone wall. Behind that wall are two homes, one built of adobe and one built of wood. You can see the red colored wooden home over the fence from this location. These two properties are collectively known as Mission Orchard House. Stop when you get to the wooden gate to this property. It will be just past the metal mail box.
It is
difficult to see from outside the gate, but the adobe that sits to the left of
the driveway ahead, is considered the oldest private residence in
California. Well at least one of the
walls of this residence can claim to be almost 250 years old.
North wall Adobe at Mission Orchard House
In 1772 the year after Fr. Serra moved
Carmel Mission from its original location near the Monterey Presidio here to
Carmel, he began construction on an adobe wall that would surround the future
mission orchard.
This wall became part of a lean-to and provided housing for the mission orchardist and caretaker at the time. Currently it is the north wall of the living room in the adobe of Mission Orchard House.
This wall became part of a lean-to and provided housing for the mission orchardist and caretaker at the time. Currently it is the north wall of the living room in the adobe of Mission Orchard House.
The Adobe with lean-to wall (Carmel A History in Architecture, Kent Seavey/ Thomas Fordham Collection)
By the mid 1840s, the area around the
ruins of the Carmel Mission church had become occupied by squatters. These
families added on to the adobe lean-to and built a wooden home next door using
timbers salvaged from the Mission ruins.
In late 1859 the United States Land
Commission confirmed the land around the Carmel Mission back to the Catholic
Church.
A decade later in 1870 Cristiano Machado was hired to serve as the
mission caretaker and orchardist.
The squatters moved from the property and
Machado moved his family into the wooden house.
As the family grew to 27, yes they had 25 children; a second story was added to the wooden home.
Cristiano Machado (California History Room Archives Monterey Public Library)
As the family grew to 27, yes they had 25 children; a second story was added to the wooden home.
Walls inside adobe Mission Orchard House
In 1921, Jo Mora was hired by the
church to restore the adobe structure.
His murals decorate the interior walls to this day. I will tell you more about Jo Mora later on this
tour.
In 1924, the church sold the restored
adobe to three women; one of these was Eva DeSalba. She was the second mayor
of Carmel-by-the-Sea from April 1920 to September 1920.
Eva and her
friends opened the Carmel Tea House. It
was a very popular spot for lunch and afternoon tea until 1929 when the Great
Depression put them out of business.
Mission Tea House 1929 (Casa Q Events)
Addition to the adobe Mission Orchard House
The property was sold to the Lloyd
Pacheco Tevis family who further expanded the existing buildings and
garden. In 1976, Harry Lewis Scott, the
owner of Keller & Scott Antiques in downtown Carmel, purchased the
property.
Mr. Scott incorporated pieces from St. Patrick's church in Watsonville that was damaged in the Loma Prieta Earthquake of 1989 into the Mission Orchard House garden.
In the mid 1990s he sold the property back to the Monterey Diocese and maintained a life estate on there. Mr. Scott died in 2011 and currently the diocese is investigating what needs to be done to restore the adobe and wooden home on this unique and historic site.
I had the opportunity to tour the grounds of the Mission Orchard House during the 2014 Bach Festival's Cottages, Gardens & Cantatas. The video below features pictures from that tour.
Mr. Scott incorporated pieces from St. Patrick's church in Watsonville that was damaged in the Loma Prieta Earthquake of 1989 into the Mission Orchard House garden.
From St. Patrick's Church, Watsonville
In the mid 1990s he sold the property back to the Monterey Diocese and maintained a life estate on there. Mr. Scott died in 2011 and currently the diocese is investigating what needs to be done to restore the adobe and wooden home on this unique and historic site.
I had the opportunity to tour the grounds of the Mission Orchard House during the 2014 Bach Festival's Cottages, Gardens & Cantatas. The video below features pictures from that tour.
From the Mission Orchard House walk straight and pass in front of the Carmel Mission Office and through the parking area to the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament.
It will be the adobe building to your left with the covered portico. Walk up the steps and have a seat for a moment on the wall under the portico while I tell you a little about this chapel.
This portion of the building, which
dates back to 1774, incorporates portions of the original mission guest
quarters, blacksmith and carpentry shops. You can see some of those original
adobe walls exposed on the wall in front of you.
Also take note of the bronze bas-relief of St. Anthony and the Child Jesus on the wall to your right.
This was created by Carmel sculptor Steven Whyte and placed here in 2009.
St. Anthony and Child Jesus (Steven Whyte)
This was created by Carmel sculptor Steven Whyte and placed here in 2009.
Altar in Chapel of Blessed Sacrament during Eucharistic Adoration after 7:00 am daily Mass
Take some time now to visit the inside of the chapel. It is used for daily Mass, at 7 am and 12 noon.
6th Station of the Cross Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament
The interior chapel walls were
decorated by Harry Downie. He also
incorporated a 13th century wooden panel of the Twelve Apostles over
the altar. We will learn more about Harry Downie later on this tour.
When you have finished with your visit to the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, descend the steps back to the parking lot and turn left and walk to the Carmel Mission Gift Shop.
Ann Sutter grave in front of altar railing
When you have finished with your visit to the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, descend the steps back to the parking lot and turn left and walk to the Carmel Mission Gift Shop.
Stop here for a moment in front of the Gift Shop. If you would like to tour the Carmel
Mission, gardens, cemetery and museums there is a $10 per person admission
fee which is purchased inside the shop. The store and grounds are open daily from 9:30 am to 4:45 pm.
If you attend Sunday Mass at 9:30 11:00 am or 12:30 pm you won't have to pay for admission as you will already be on the grounds. So that is also an option.
If you attend Sunday Mass at 9:30 11:00 am or 12:30 pm you won't have to pay for admission as you will already be on the grounds. So that is also an option.
If you decide to purchase admission, I
will be accompany you along the tour, giving you history and insight on what
to look for when you enter the Basilica and museums. So let's get going.
Enter the store and purchase your ticket at the cash register directly in front of you. Make sure you get a map from the docent before exiting the side door to the Mission Courtyard.
To begin your tour, exit the store to the courtyard. As you exit take a look to your right back to the Mission gate.
The two statues that sit one on either side of the gate are St. Francis to the left and Saint Anthony to the right.
Enter the store and purchase your ticket at the cash register directly in front of you. Make sure you get a map from the docent before exiting the side door to the Mission Courtyard.
To begin your tour, exit the store to the courtyard. As you exit take a look to your right back to the Mission gate. The two statues that sit one on either side of the gate are St. Francis to the left and Saint Anthony to the right.
They are 18th century Venetian and
donated to the mission by Louis W. Hill of Oakland who was chairman of the Great
Northern Railway Company from 1912 to his death in 1916.
Continue walking straight toward the front entrance of the Mission Basilica, stop at the informational panels ahead on your left.
Continue walking straight toward the front entrance of the Mission Basilica, stop at the informational panels ahead on your left.
The first panel offers a map of the grounds. We will be visiting everything listed on the map during this walking tour.
The second panel of pictures features historical renderings of the mission over the years.
Carmel Mission c. 1794 by John Sykes
The first picture of the mission from 1794 shows it as a mere canopy
structure, a far cry from the iconic stone church we see today.
Next find the picture of the main church with
the collapsed roof. This was due to
neglect after secularization. Next the Carmel Mission after its first restoration in 1884 (above) with the Gothic-style roof
and finally the 1930s restoration of the roof back to its original cantenary
arch style (below).
The last three panels explain the role
of the Carmel Mission Foundation and its outstanding ongoing effort to preserve this 22 acre complex
which contains the Carmel Mission Basilica, the grounds, a number of museums, numerous artifacts and the Mission Orchard House property.
Phase I, the $5.5 million restoration and seismic retrofit of the church walls, towers and dome was completed in 2013.
Phase I Retrofit 2013
Phase I Retrofit 2013
Phase I Retrofit 2013
Phase I Retrofit 2013
Now with the Courtyard Informational Panels behind you walk straight ahead to the courtyard fountain.
Stop and have a seat for a moment
on the wall of the courtyard fountain. This fountain, which was connected to the
mission aqueduct, provided clean water for drinking and cooking during early
mission days.
When Fr. Serra
arrived in Carmel in the 1770s the Rumsien Native people lived near this site. They had their own language and beliefs and
raised nothing to sustain themselves, but rather relied on what the earth provided through
hunting and gathering. Their lives
simply revolved around what it took to feed their families.
Espanoles en America (Carmel Mission Prayer Garden)
The early years at Carmel Mission were very hard on the padres as they depended on sporadic deliveries from ships from Mexico for their food supplies. The Native people saw that the padres had things they could use, and that is what initially brought them together. Then in reciprocation, and a gesture of kindness, the Rumsien people shared what food they could with the padres.
Undoubtedly for the first generation
of Native people who joined the Carmel Mission community, life was difficult,
unlike anything they had ever experienced.
Nevertheless a growing number did join, and stayed connected to the
Mission over the years.
Taken at Rumsien exhibit Pacific House Museum - Monterey
It is reported in mission diaries that the Native people were not forced to convert to Christianity, but that it should be their free choice to join. Between the years of 1770 and 1836, over 4,000 were baptized at Carmel Mission. Once baptized though, converts were expected to adhere to a way of life much different to what they were used to, some found this difficult.
During early mission days in the later part of the 18th century, corporal punishment was an accepted manner
of discipline. The military administered
severe punishment for legal infractions, whether it be for a soldier, civilian
or Native. From all accounts however,
Fr. Serra was not a harsh man and frequently intervened in stopping unfair
treatment of the Native people.
The lives of those who chose to stay
and live within the mission community were much changed. Though there are differing opinions on this
subject, some do believe the Native peoples lives may have changed for the
better. Eventually each mission became self-sustaining, raising its own
livestock, growing produce and manufacturing many different materials in their
blacksmith, carpentry shop and tannery.
As a member of the Mission community, the Native people learned new
skills and never had to worry about where their next meal would come from.
Carmel Mission c. 1827 (Watercolor by Richard Beechey Monterey County Library)
Over the years the mission population
grew exponentially and by 1795, more than 875 people were living within the
mission area. 500 head of cattle and sheep grazed the surrounding land, and
hundreds of bushels of wheat, barley, beans and maize were harvested yearly.
During those first 25 years, a total of seven churches were erected throughout the property, culminating with the stone church completed in 1797 using Santa Lucia sandstone that you see here today. But this growth was not to last.
During those first 25 years, a total of seven churches were erected throughout the property, culminating with the stone church completed in 1797 using Santa Lucia sandstone that you see here today. But this growth was not to last.
After the Mexican government secularized
the mission system, the padres and Native American converts were all forced
from the land. Some returned to their
traditional ways, others used the skills they had learned at the Mission to became ranch hands
or skilled laborers.
With the help of the Native people the
padres were able to move the majority of the mission artifacts to the Royal
Presidio in Monterey for safe keeping. By 1851 the Carmel Mission had fallen prey to vandalism and decay, the
quadrangle adobe walls sunk back into the ground leaving piles of adobe dirt
behind.
Altar in ruins used for Mass c.1856 (California History Room Archives, Monterey Public Library)
“We visited the old Mission Carmelo…it
is now a compete ruin, entirely desolate…We rode over a broken adobe wall into
the court…through several rooms, then into the church…About half of the roof
had fallen in…the paintings are mostly obliterated...Cattle had free access to
all parts…I climbed over the rubbish to the altar...thousands of birds lived in
the nooks of the old deserted wall and squirrels burrowed in the old mounds
made by the adobe walls…The old garden is now a barley field…So have passed
away former wealth and power even in this new country.”
Carmel Mission c. 1880 (California History Room Archives, Monterey Public Library)
In 1884 interest to renovate Carmel
Mission was initiated by Fr. Casanova, a parish priest from Monterey. Initially he charged tourists ten cents to
visit the Mission ruins. By the end of the first year, he had
collected just about $11.00.
Finally with the help of Mrs. Leland Stanford, $4,000 was raised to replace the roof on the chapel, and on August 28, 1884, the centennial of Fr. Serra’s death, 2,000 people attended the Mission’s re-dedication.
This renovation was sufficient to preserve the Mission until the 1930s when cabinet maker Harry Downie was asked to restore some of the statues at the Mission. His job would quickly expand to restoring the entire property.
Re-dedication August 28, 1884 (C.W.Johnson, California History Room Archives Monterey Public Library)
Finally with the help of Mrs. Leland Stanford, $4,000 was raised to replace the roof on the chapel, and on August 28, 1884, the centennial of Fr. Serra’s death, 2,000 people attended the Mission’s re-dedication.
This renovation was sufficient to preserve the Mission until the 1930s when cabinet maker Harry Downie was asked to restore some of the statues at the Mission. His job would quickly expand to restoring the entire property.
Harry Downie Museum
Okay it is time to stretch our legs a
little. From the fountain walk toward
the Mission church, just past the bronze statue of Fr. Junipero Serra is a
small adobe building. This is the Harry
Downie Museum.
Adobe priests quarters (Carmel Mission Foundation Monthly Insider May 2020)
Commissioned by Fr. Mestres, what would become the Downie Museum was built in 1919 and completed in 1921. The adobe was originally built as quarters for visiting priests. It is located on the approximate site of the second mission church built between 1773 and 1776, which consisted of a large hut built of planks with a mud plaster roof. It was dedicated to Harry Downie in 1980 and today serves as the Harry Downie Museum.
Downie, a third generation San
Franciscan, was a cabinetmaker with a special reputation in restoration of
Spanish antiques. At the age of
twenty-eight, he set off from San Francisco with his sights set on opening a
cabinetmaking business in Santa Barbara.
On his way, he stopped off at Carmel Mission to restore some statuary. What was intended to be a month long visit turned into 49 years.
Downie’s knowledge and skills were just what was necessary to restore mission artifacts. After studying written records and photographs, he unearthed the original location of all the buildings that made up the Mission complex. He worked tirelessly to retrieve Carmel Mission works of art and reassembled these as well as original vestments and altar pieces to what you see today in the Basilica and the Mission museums.
Harry Downie with Msgr. Michael O'Connell (California History Room Archives, Monterey Public Library)
On his way, he stopped off at Carmel Mission to restore some statuary. What was intended to be a month long visit turned into 49 years.
Downie’s knowledge and skills were just what was necessary to restore mission artifacts. After studying written records and photographs, he unearthed the original location of all the buildings that made up the Mission complex. He worked tirelessly to retrieve Carmel Mission works of art and reassembled these as well as original vestments and altar pieces to what you see today in the Basilica and the Mission museums.
Cross from the tower of the church in 1797 over fireplace in Downie Museum
Take some time now if you like and explore the museum. The stone fireplace inside was built by Jo Mora. This museum offers visitors a
15-minute video on the life of Fr. Serra and an overview of the Carmel Mission.
You will also find six glass displays inside. The first contains artifacts of the Rumsien Native peoples. The second artifacts associated with the Fr. Serra’s first Mass at the Mission.
There
is also a display of actual tools that were used during the construction as
well as artifacts that were found buried in the rubble of the ruins.
The final display which is housed in the second room is dedicated to the work of Harry Downie. There you will find some of his original drawings and notebooks as well as a recreation of his drafting room and workshop.
You will also find six glass displays inside. The first contains artifacts of the Rumsien Native peoples. The second artifacts associated with the Fr. Serra’s first Mass at the Mission.
When you are finished exit
the museum and turn right.
Enter the cemetery and walk
down to the sacristy door which is to the left of the statue of Mary. Then turn around and walk back to the entrance.
This is the burial ground of numerous
Native American people; hundreds are also buried under the main church floor. Their
graves are marked simply by abalone shells.
Along the wall of the Mission Church are the graves of Harry Downie and his wife Mable as well as the grave of Maria Antonia Fields. We visited her house earlier on this tour.
You will also find a very large
old tombstone against the wall for Old Gabriel, a native who was baptized by Fr.
Serra and died in 1890.
Once you have visited the Mission Cemetery, exit the gate you entered and turn right to the entrance of the Carmel Mission Basilica.
Along the wall of the Mission Church are the graves of Harry Downie and his wife Mable as well as the grave of Maria Antonia Fields. We visited her house earlier on this tour.
Once you have visited the Mission Cemetery, exit the gate you entered and turn right to the entrance of the Carmel Mission Basilica.
Before I talk about the Basilica itself,
I want to call your attention to the left side of the front entrance. Here you
will find the remnants of the aqueduct which was used during early mission days,
to move water from the Carmel River to and from the fountains on the property
and irrigate the fields.
However, he did not see it build as he died in 1784. His friend, Fr. Lausen, and successor provided the building oversight to this church which was constructed between 1793 and 1797 by architect and stonemason Manuel Ruiz. Under Fr. Lausen Carmel Mission would reach the height of its prosperity.
Star of Bethlehem window
Before you enter take a look up over the front door to the Star of Bethlehem window. This is the trade mark of our church. It you look close you will notice it is
slightly off center.
The speculation is that this was done purposely as every June at the summer solstice, if there is not a layer of fog over the coast, the rising sun shines through the window of the church and makes an intense blaze of light that beautifully illuminates the tabernacle behind the altar. This phenomenon has also been discovered to occur at Mission San Juan Batista and the Santa Barbara Mission on the winter solstice in December.
Now it is time to enter the church through the large wooden doors. In front of the door will be the bronze holy water font.
The speculation is that this was done purposely as every June at the summer solstice, if there is not a layer of fog over the coast, the rising sun shines through the window of the church and makes an intense blaze of light that beautifully illuminates the tabernacle behind the altar. This phenomenon has also been discovered to occur at Mission San Juan Batista and the Santa Barbara Mission on the winter solstice in December.
Now it is time to enter the church through the large wooden doors. In front of the door will be the bronze holy water font.
The first thing you should notice is the tile on the ground and the pews. During mission days the floor was hard packed dirt. This made burial in the church easier. In mission days, pews did not exist as most stood or sat on the dirt floor.
Tintanablum
To the right off the large doors is the Umbrellina. It looks like an umbrella. To the left the Tintanablum which contains a small
bell. These two symbols link the church to the Pope and signify that Carmel
Mission is a minor Basilica. If a Pope visits these two pieces are used during the
celebration of the Mass and were used when Saint Pope John Paul II visited in
1987.
Elevated to a Basilica April 21, 1961 - Tintanablum and Umbrellina(picture taken in Mission Museum)
Art served as a way to communicate
spiritual ideas to the Native people and helped in the conversion process. Some
of the artwork on the walls was ordered by Fr. Serra from workshops in Mexico
and arrived in the 1770s. Many of the
paintings on the walls are not signed which means that they were probably done
by more than one student in the workshop. We do have paintings that are signed,
but the majority are not.
St. Bibiana
St. Raymond of Penaforte
The room to the left after you enter
is the Baptistery. This contains a stone
baptismal font from 1795. This was unearthed by Downie in 1932 during an
excavation of the cemetery; he created the wooden top in his workshop.
The painting of St. John the Baptist and Jesus was ordered by Fr. Serra from Mexico City.
Above the front entrance is the choir
loft and a Casavant Freres pipe organ.
Installed in 1986, the hand-painted casework is decorated with elaborate
carvings, statuary and gold leaf.
The mission ceiling is an inverted
catenary arch. This ideal form of an arch supports only itself, in fact
historic photographs of the Mission in ruins showed the catenary arches still
intact though the ceiling was caved in.
The interior was originally much more
ornate than what you see today, with 6 side altars and many more statues and
artifacts.
Up the main aisle of the church on both side walls notice the 14 Stations of the Cross. These oil paintings came from Mexico after 1800. Interspersed among the Stations are other paintings. On the left side are St. James the Apostle, he is holding a scallop shell his traditional symbol. St. Isidore the Laborer and St. Rose of Lima.
Up the main aisle of the church on both side walls notice the 14 Stations of the Cross. These oil paintings came from Mexico after 1800. Interspersed among the Stations are other paintings. On the left side are St. James the Apostle, he is holding a scallop shell his traditional symbol. St. Isidore the Laborer and St. Rose of Lima.
Christ the King
On the right wall, the first painting
is of St. Rose of Viterbo. In the center a statue of Christ the King. This statue was carved by Downie and stands
on a 17th century altar from Italy.
The next painting is an 18th century painting of Our Lady of Guadalupe.
The next painting is an 18th century painting of Our Lady of Guadalupe.
In the center on the left side just
past the organ, is the Bethlehem Chapel.
We are going to skip this for now as we will visit this chapel later on our
tour.
Saint Francis of Assisi
At the front of the church just outside the altar rail on either side of an ornate archway are two 18th century statues, St. Joseph with the Child Jesus and
St. Francis of Assisi.
St. Joseph with the Child Jesus
Behind the altar railing near the back
wall on either side of the altar are two large paintings.
On the left, Glory of Heaven by Jose de Paez, and on the right Our Lady of Sorrows by Martin Rodriquez.
Both were ordered by Fr. Serra from Mexico City.
Glory of Heaven (Jose de Paez)
Our Lady of Sorrows ( Martin Rodriquez)
Now take a look behind the altar
railing to the main altar and the amazing reredos which hold a number of
significant statues. The original reredos from Mexico was destroyed when the
roof collapsed.
This one you see today was built in 1954 by Downie based upon the reredos at the Mission Dolores in San Francisco, it is made of 17 sections of California redwood which has been overlaid with plaster, painted and fitted together. The blue sky behind the crucifix is actually speaker cloth covering organ pipes.
This one you see today was built in 1954 by Downie based upon the reredos at the Mission Dolores in San Francisco, it is made of 17 sections of California redwood which has been overlaid with plaster, painted and fitted together. The blue sky behind the crucifix is actually speaker cloth covering organ pipes.
The statues on the reredos are saints of special importance to the Franciscans. At the top under the white dove which symbolizes the Holy Spirit, is St. Charles Borromeo, acquired in 1792 he is the patron of this church. To the left is St. Michael the Archangel carved around 1809 and opposite him, St. Anthony of Padua. The bottom left is a 19th century statue of Mary entitled La Purisima Conception and opposite her, St Bonaventure carved in the 18th century.
In front of the blue sky cloth from
left to right are Our Lady of Sorrows, Christ Crucified and St. John the
Evangelist. The bronze tabernacle was purchased in 1956 from J. Gunnings of
Fleet Street in Dublin and donated to the mission by Maria Antonia Field.
To the left of the main altar are
three grave sites, Fr. Crespi and Fr. Lopez in the first vault, Fr. Serra in
the center and Fr. Lausen to the right.
To the right and just outside the altar area is a wooden reliquary containing wood pieces from Fr. Serra’s original coffin. Fr. Serra died on August 28, 1784 and was buried the next day at the altar of the 5th church built on this site, which was an adobe. When this 7th stone church was constructed, the altar was built to include the grave of Fr. Serra.
In 1856, an exhumation was done to
identify Fr. Serra’s grave which had been covered when the roof collapsed. His body
was verified and reburied. In 1882 his body
was exhumed again. At this time a number
of artifacts were recovered and are now found in the Convento Museum we will
visit later on this tour.
In 1943 there was a canonical exhumation,
which is a special process required for the designation of sainthood. This time the Serra Cross, a caravaca style cross
belonging to Fr. Serra was removed from the grave. We will see this later as well. His remains were then buried in a small
copper casket and placed under the main altar floor, and what was left of the redwood
coffin preserved in the reliquary.
After you have explored the interior of the church, exit the
main door you entered, turn right and I will meet you in front of the Mora
Chapel Museum.
Constructed between 1921 and 1924 over a portion of the original Convento and used as a meeting room this chapel houses the elaborate Serra Memorial Cenotaph, sculpted in 1924 by Joe Mora. From the day Mora accepted the commission, he felt that it was to be the supreme professional effort of his life.
Serra Memorial Cenotaph in Mora Chapel Museum
Jo Mora as he worked on the Cenotaph (photo taken in Mora Chapel)
Known as an artist, historian, sculptor, painter, photographer, illustrator, and muralist, Jo Mora was born in Uruguay in 1876, the son of a classically trained Catalonian sculptor.
His family moved to the east coast where Mora
spent his young years attending several art schools and working as an illustrator
and cartoonist. In 1921, he moved to
Carmel-by-the-Sea and remained working in the area for the rest of his
life.
Enter the chapel now and explore the details of Jo Mora's exceptional work.
The cenotaph consists of an empty sarcophagus carved from locally quarried travertine marble with base-relief panels that depict notable events in mission days, including the relief ship the San Antonio, which was sighted on St. Joseph's day 1770 at San Diego.
The life-size sculpture of Serra lies atop the monument, his feet resting on a bear cub, an emblem of California.
Three additional bronze sculptures surround Serra, Fr. Crespi who died before Serra stands at his head. Kneeling at Serra's feet are Fr. Lausen who succeeded Serra as president of the missions of Baja and Alta California and Fr. Lopez a friar from Carmel Mission.
Now I want to call your attention to the items displayed behind the glass wall at the head of the cenotaph. This glass cabinet was added to the Mora Chapel by Downie, originally to display historic liturgical vestments. These vestments were moved to the Brides Room which we will be visiting later on this tour.
Today the cabinet is home to a very large Crucifix, also designed by Jo Mora, it features Christ at the top, Saint Francis of Assisi to the left, Saint Anthony of Padua on the right and Saint Charles Borromeo at the bottom.
Fr. Serra brought the silver altar service you see below, the candlesticks, missal stand and altar cards with him on the Portola Expedition. These pieces came from the Mission in Loreto, Mexico that was established in 1744.
The chalice shown center above is the only one in California known to have been used by Fr. Serra and was also used by Saint Pope John Paul II during his visit in 1987.
This display changes periodically, adding or subtraction artifacts. Below the altar is again adorned with this chalice as well as a monstrance (shown to the right of the chalice) that was also used by Serra.
Three additional bronze sculptures surround Serra, Fr. Crespi who died before Serra stands at his head. Kneeling at Serra's feet are Fr. Lausen who succeeded Serra as president of the missions of Baja and Alta California and Fr. Lopez a friar from Carmel Mission.
Now I want to call your attention to the items displayed behind the glass wall at the head of the cenotaph. This glass cabinet was added to the Mora Chapel by Downie, originally to display historic liturgical vestments. These vestments were moved to the Brides Room which we will be visiting later on this tour.
Today the cabinet is home to a very large Crucifix, also designed by Jo Mora, it features Christ at the top, Saint Francis of Assisi to the left, Saint Anthony of Padua on the right and Saint Charles Borromeo at the bottom.
The chalice shown center above is the only one in California known to have been used by Fr. Serra and was also used by Saint Pope John Paul II during his visit in 1987.
This display changes periodically, adding or subtraction artifacts. Below the altar is again adorned with this chalice as well as a monstrance (shown to the right of the chalice) that was also used by Serra.
After you have explored this chapel exit the door directly opposite the way you entered and proceed into the quadrangle area.
When you come to the first opening in the stucco wall, exit the covered walkway area by turning right into the quadrangle and walk to the fountain.
This fountain was connected to the
aqueduct in front of the main entrance to the church, and provided water for
bathing and washing. This is a replica of the original and was constructed in
the 1960s. Once the water was used, it
was recycled to irrigate the orchards and fields surrounding the mission.
California mission’s were arranged around a quadrangle, creating an open courtyard in the middle. It was here in this outdoor room where much of mission life took place. Here you would find an outdoor kitchen with a beehive oven for making bread, an oil press and grinding mill.
Carmel Mission Fiesta 2016
Currently this courtyard is used for
numerous activities, the Carmel Mission Fiesta, ...
...Carmel Mission Classic, and it
was here on September 23, 2015 that I gathered with a large crowd to watch on a
jumbo screen as Pope Francis declared Father Junipero Serra a saint.
Now turn around and look beyond the fountain
to the Tricentennial Memorial Wall. It
has a large bell in front of it.
Carmel Mission Classic 2016 (Rolls Royce owned by Fred Astaire)
Canonization Saint Junipero Serra 2015
Erected in celebration of the 300th anniversary of Fr. Serra’s birth in 1713, it is also a lasting tribute to some of the donors who made the current ongoing restorations possible.
The bell in front of the wall is the Ave Maria bell. Cast in Mexico City in 1807 and installed at the Carmel Mission in 1820, this bell was removed by the Native people, when the mission system secularized and disbanded, for safekeeping. It eventually ended up in St. Patrick’s Church in Watsonville. In 1925 it was installed back in the mission bell tower, but cracked after usage and had to be removed. More on this bell later on our tour.
Now I want to call your attention to the covered patios that surround this courtyard. These are the hallways that lead to the classrooms of Junipero Serra School.
Sadly on May 8, 2020, the Catholic Diocese of Monterey announced that after some 75 years of educating the children of the Carmel area, this pre-Kindergarten through 8th grade campus will be permanently closing its doors at the end of the 2019-2020 school year.
Now turn around and with the fountain behind you walk straight toward the wooden cross.
Take a look to the left of the cross,
there will be some stairs. Walk over to
those stairs and climb the few steps to the patio next to the bell tower.
Take a look to your right at the bell
tower. Manuel Ruiz designed the church to have 2 open bell towers; this is the
larger of the two.
Though we know very little about the original mission bells, which are long gone, we know quite a bit about the ones currently in use. This larger tower has 9 bells; all are bronze with a green patina.
The one most visible from this location in the quadrangle is the largest of the 9, and is a replica of the original Ave Maria bell, which you just viewed near the Tricentennial Memorial Wall. The new Ave Maria Bell was cast by Peteit & Fritzen of Holland in 2010 and placed in the bell tower.
Though we know very little about the original mission bells, which are long gone, we know quite a bit about the ones currently in use. This larger tower has 9 bells; all are bronze with a green patina.
The one most visible from this location in the quadrangle is the largest of the 9, and is a replica of the original Ave Maria bell, which you just viewed near the Tricentennial Memorial Wall. The new Ave Maria Bell was cast by Peteit & Fritzen of Holland in 2010 and placed in the bell tower.
Just below the bells on the tower wall
is a niche with a wooden statue of St. Benedict. This replica of the original
was carved by Downie and placed here in 1960.
The original can be seen in the Convento Museum later on this tour. Now as you face the bell tower, turn to your left and walk past the wooden door that leads back into the Basilica and straight toward the western quadrangle wall. We are headed to the Serra Memorial Prayer Garden.
Enjoy this tranquil place and examine the Serra statue, fountain and tile mosaics.
The original can be seen in the Convento Museum later on this tour. Now as you face the bell tower, turn to your left and walk past the wooden door that leads back into the Basilica and straight toward the western quadrangle wall. We are headed to the Serra Memorial Prayer Garden.
Enjoy this tranquil place and examine the Serra statue, fountain and tile mosaics.
Inside this passageway take the first
left, pass by an 18th century Italian nativity scene and enter the Brides Room.
The Brides Room with vintage vestments
The vestments located in the Brides Room of the Basilica are beautiful examples of liturgical hand craftsmanship.
The one below with its gold on gold brocade was produced by Fraefle & Co., in St. Gall, Switzerland.
The one below with its gold on gold brocade was produced by Fraefle & Co., in St. Gall, Switzerland.
Vestment
Exit the Brides Room and turn left into the passageway. Here you will find a painting of Our Lady of Perpetual Help in a shrine created by Downie around 1940.
Across from Our Lady of Perpetual Help look for the 1884 lithograph of the Suffering Christ.
If you keep going in this direction, you will end up at the front of the altar in the main Basilica. When you have finished exploring this area, turn
around and walk back through the passageway, down the steps and into the
covered walkway then turn right in the direction away from this Memorial Prayer Garden, to the Munras Museum .
Munras Museum Entrance (Inns of Monterey)
This museum houses five generations of treasured heirlooms and mementos from the Esteban Munras-Manzanelli family whose presence in this area dates to 1806.
I
told you about Esteban Munras much earlier on this tour when we visited the home of his great-granddaughter Maria
Antonia Field.
The main room of the museum contains display cabinets with a number of artifacts organized by theme, entitled Coming to California, Town & Ranch Life, Health & Healing and Child’s Play.
Another room is set up as the sala or parlor and provides a glimpse of what life was like in the 1900s at Casa Munras in Monterey. Finally you have the opportunity to watch a 12 minute film about Maria Antonio Field.
The main room of the museum contains display cabinets with a number of artifacts organized by theme, entitled Coming to California, Town & Ranch Life, Health & Healing and Child’s Play.
Another room is set up as the sala or parlor and provides a glimpse of what life was like in the 1900s at Casa Munras in Monterey. Finally you have the opportunity to watch a 12 minute film about Maria Antonio Field.
Once you have explored the Munras Museum, walk back through the covered walkway, pass the Memorial Prayer Garden to the staircase which is left of the bell tower we visited earlier. Here you will find the side entrance to the Bethlehem Chapel.
Entrance to Bethlehem Chapel
Enter the wooden door to the Bethlehem Chapel which is buttressed to the side wall of the main church, this chapel was built between 1811 and 1817.
Inside make sure to notice the small
arch-shaped window which is made of clam shells from Manilla as well as the
painted passion flowers on the ceiling.
Representing the Passion of Christ, the outer petals are the Crown of
Thorns, the stamens the nails and the color red for the blood shed by Jesus.
This chapel also houses what is considered the oldest statue on the West Coast, the life-sized Our Lady of Bethlehem.
This chapel also houses what is considered the oldest statue on the West Coast, the life-sized Our Lady of Bethlehem.
A Marian devotion, Portuguese and Spanish explorers would pray to
her before their journeys and upon their return. While the exact origin of this statue is not
known, she was likely carved in Spain.
In 1769, when this statue was the property of the Archbishop of Mexico City, he loaned it to the Portola Expedition to assure a safe journey while the team created a chain of presidios, pueblos and missions.
After being present at the founding of the Mission San Diego on
July 16, 1769, she went on with Fr. Serra to Monterey and was present at the
founding of the Carmel Mission on June 3, 1770.
Our Lady of Bethlehem would log many more miles as she was then sent back to Mexico City and finally returned to Fr. Serra in Carmel. After the missions were secularized, the statue was given to the Cantau family of Monterey for safekeeping. In 1948 Downie tracked down the statue in Monterey and secured the statues return to Carmel Mission, where it resides to this day.
When Saint Pope John Paul II
visited Carmel Mission in 1987 he prayed at the altar of Our Lady of Bethlehem
and there is a plaque on the floor commemorating his visit. The following year, he would beatify Fr.
Serra, this the first step toward Serra’s canonization.
Once you have visited the Bethlehem Chapel, exit back out the door you entered and proceed straight to the covered walkway and the side door to the Mora Chapel.
Enter the Mora Chapel, turn right and walk past the cenotaph to the end of this room, ascend a set of steps and you will enter the Convento Museum. This portion of the old convent, which is where the padres lived, dates from the late 1700s to about 1820. Reconstruction of this wing into a museum began in 1932 by Harry Downie, was completed in 1941 and is the last museum we will tour today.In 1769, when this statue was the property of the Archbishop of Mexico City, he loaned it to the Portola Expedition to assure a safe journey while the team created a chain of presidios, pueblos and missions.
Our Lady of Bethlehem would log many more miles as she was then sent back to Mexico City and finally returned to Fr. Serra in Carmel. After the missions were secularized, the statue was given to the Cantau family of Monterey for safekeeping. In 1948 Downie tracked down the statue in Monterey and secured the statues return to Carmel Mission, where it resides to this day.
Once you have visited the Bethlehem Chapel, exit back out the door you entered and proceed straight to the covered walkway and the side door to the Mora Chapel.
...another to implements used at the mission and one containing an assortment of items including the original wooden St. Benedict statue, remember you saw the replica in the niche on the bell tower wall.
The displays in this room also house a number of woodcarvings done by Native Americans,...
...a wooden confessional and a leather arm shield worn by a member of the Portola Expedition.
From here continue walking down the hall to the other rooms in the museum.
Vizcaino-Serra Oak Tree display
"Under the shade of a massive coast live oak with branches so close to the shore of Monterey Harbor that they bath in the waters of the sea high tide, Spanish explorer Sebastian Vizcaino and his Carmelite chaplains offered Mass on 17 December 1602. As the first recorded Europeans to step ashore on Upper California territory, this event predates the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth Rock in 1620 and is significant to California history.
One hundred and sixty-seven years later, on Pentecost Sunday 3 June 1770, Franciscan missionary Fr. Junipero Serra and Spanish Military Governor Gaspar de Portola used the same landmark tree to confirm their "rediscovery" of Monterey Bay...with bells suspended from the tree, Serra sang a High Mass...and Portola unfurled the royal standard."
Now on the opposite wall from this display, look for the painting by Leon Trousset from 1877 which depicts Junipero Serra celebrating Mass beneath the tree on June 3, 1770.
Vizcaino-Serra Oak Tree survived lightning damage during the 1840s but it was declared dead in 1904 and thrown into the bay. Fr. Mestres recovered the tree and preserved it on a pedestal behind San Carlos Church a year later.
Picture of Vizciano-Serra Oak taken in Convento Museum
In June of 1989 the remnants were removed and placed behind glass in hopes of permanently preserving a portion of California's Plymouth Rock. A piece can be seen here in the Convento Museum.
The reliquary, which is a container for holy items (pictured below), is assumed to have been made by Native craftsman. The border patterns features wheat and grapes which represent the bread and wine of the Eucharist.
The relics under glass are, starting at the top and going clockwise: a wax sacramental of Our Lady of the Rosary from the pontificate of Pius VI (1775-1799), bone, habit and wood from the grave of St. Francis Solano (large cross) bone and wood from the grave of St. Rose of Lima (small cross), relic of St. Charles Borromeo, and bones of early Christian martyrs.
The last room in the museum is Fr. Serra’s cell.
Although nothing in the room is original, Downie referred to Fr. Palou’s biography of Serra for the description of the room. Palou wrote of a small cell that contained a rush stool and bed of rough boards covered by a blanket.
Serra's Viaticum by Mariano Guerreo (Carmel Mission)
Saint Junipero Serra died here in
his cell on August 28, 1784. In
California alone, where he spent the last 15 years of his life, he founded nine
missions, baptized more than 6000 Native Americans and confirmed more than
5000. Exit the Convento Museum to the right of Serra's cell into the Mission Gift Shop. Take some time to browse through the Gift Shop for souvenirs then exit the front door and turn left. I will meet back up with you in front of the gate to the Mission Courtyard.
The next project to be taken on by the Carmel Mission Foundation will be northeast quadrant of the mission which includes the Convento Museum and front entrance. Next time you visit you will probably enjoy a much more state-of- the-art museum experience.
As you exit the parking lot, turn left onto Lasuen Drive. Walk as close to the left side of the street as possible and pay attention to the traffic coming from both directions.
Veer right and continue walking as we are coming to the end of our tour. I would like to take this time to thank you for joining us today and let you know that we have quite a number of walking tours of both Carmel-by-the-Sea and Monterey.
A few of our more popular tours are Carmel Fairy Tale Houses, Downtown Carmel In One Hour, and Cannery Row.
There are also some driving tours, our most recent which features a number of California State Parks from Carmel to southern Big Sur will be available mid-summer 2020. You will find them all listed under VoiceMap Monterey Peninsula.
Ahead of you is the Carmel Mission
Ranch where we began this tour. This is
where I am leaving you. If you happen to get here around 4:00 pm that is the
time the patio bar opens. It is a lovely place to rest and enjoy the view with
your favorite beverage.
We hope that you have enjoyed your
tour of Carmel Mission Ranch, Mission Trails Park and Mission Basilica. Until next time, happy adventures!
All pictures and video by L. A. Momboisse unless listed below:
Black and White photo of Martin farmhouse with Elizabeth Martin (sitting). (De Voe, Marcia. "The Martins and The Hattons." Carmel-by-the-Sea, 1979, pg 14)
A Summer Place photo at Walker House (IMDB Library)
Muriel Vanderbilt Phelps (Wikipedia)
Black and White photo Mission Ranch Cottages behind the bunkhouse in 1986. (Pine Cone, December 11, 1986. Photo Holly McFarland.)
Black and White Photo by Ben Lloyd of The Herald of Carmel Heritage Society Honorees, Marjory Lloyd, Virginia Stanton, and Helen Wilson. (The Herald (11/27/1990)
Ohlone (painting by Louis Choris, Wikipedia)
Black and White Photo by Ben Lloyd of The Herald of Carmel Heritage Society Honorees, Marjory Lloyd, Virginia Stanton, and Helen Wilson. (The Herald (11/27/1990)
Ohlone (painting by Louis Choris, Wikipedia)
Rumsien people at Mission San Carlos Borroméo de Carmelo to greet French expedition led by Jean Francois Galaup, Comte De La Perouse. Watercolor attributed to Tomas de Suria or Jose Cardero, 1791. Wikipedia
Juan Rodriquez Cabrillo (Wikipedia)
Mass in Monterey during Vizcaino Expedition 1602 (painting byLeon Trousset from 1877) Taken at Convento Museum at Carmel Mission
Julia Morgan (Wikipedia)
Merrill Hall Auditorium Asilomar (Julia Morgan 1928) Wikipedia
Photo of painting of Fr. Junipero Serra taken at Convento Museum Carmel Mission. In this painting, Serra is in his mid-thirties when we begins work in Mexico. This painting was made in the late nineteenth century of a now lost original. The original copy is from the archive library at Santa Barbara Mission.
Gaspar de Portola Arrives in Monterey by Alexander F. Harmer (public domain)
Juan Bautista de Anza, from a portrait in oil by Fray Orsi in 1774 (wikipedia)
Mission Bell Marker (Wikipedia)
The Kings Highway El Camino Real (The California Missions by Msgr. Francis J. Weber, page 19 )
Former home of Maria Antonia Field 2957 Santa Lucia (real estate listing)
Painting Battle Of Monterey c 1855 - anonymous - Public Domain
Santiago Duckworth on Lower Trail overlooking Carmel City (1890 by C.W.J. Johnson - Harrison Memorial Library Local History Department)
Advertisement by Santiago Duckworth for Carmel City Catholic Summer Resort c. 1889 (Harrison Memorial Library Local History Branch)
Frank Devendorf and Frank Powers in a buggy - (courtesy of Jack Galante and the Jane Galante Collection)
Carmel Hill 1908 (Harrison Memorial Library Local History Department)
Carmel Mission in ruins c. 1880 picture taken at the Colton Hall Museum, Monterey
Carmel Development Company flyer, c. 1909 (Devendorf files Harrison Memorial Library Local History Department)
George Hay the 14th Earl of Kinnoull (Wikipedia)
Flanders Mansion c. 1926 (City of Carmel-by-the-Sea)
Back door by stairs to basement 2013 (City of Carmel-by-the-Sea)
Photo of Flanders/Doolittle map taken at Harrison Memorial Library Local History Branch
Fr. Junipero Serra (Wikipedia)
The Adobe with lean-to wall (Carmel A History in Architecture, Kent Seavey/ Thomas Fordham Collection)
The Adobe with lean-to wall (Carmel A History in Architecture, Kent Seavey/ Thomas Fordham Collection)
Cristiano Machado (California History Room Archives, Monterey Public Library)
Mission Pear Orchard c. 1900 (Carmel Mission Foundation)
Black and white photo from 1929 - the Mission Tea House. Photo used with permission from Casa Q Events. Casa Q Events planned the dinner at Orchard House given in honor of the 300th anniversary of the birth of Blessed Father Junipero Serra.
Carmel Mission c. 1827 (Watercolor by Richard Beechey Monterey County Library)
Altar in ruins used for Mass c.1856 (California History Room Archives, Monterey Public Library)
Carmel Mission c. 1880 (California History Room Archives, Monterey Public Library)
Re-dedication August 28, 1884 (photograph C.W.Johnson, California History Room Archives Monterey Public Library)
Adobe priests quarters recreated in 1930 by Jo Mora (Carmel Mission Foundation Monthly Insider May 2020)
Harry Downie and Msgr. Michael O'Connell (California History Room Archives Monterey Public Library)
Munras Museum Entrance (Inns of Monterey)
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