Carmel-by-the-Sea’s Bohemian Art Scene: A Guide to 20 Galleries and Studios

Interested in being your own tour guide? I have over 20 published GPS audio tours with VoiceMap (Carmel, Monterey, California Gold Country, Folsom, Tahoe, Sacramento) and over 40 tours published with GPSmyCity (CarmelMontereyBig Sur, Folsom, Sacramento, Pacific Grove, Cinque TerreKotor MontenegroCopenhagen). Happy Adventures!


Joaquin Turner Gallery


If you are interested in this walking tour as an audio tour, our companion audio tour is available here on VoiceMap.  Tours are listed under Monterey and Carmel-by-the-Sea and Santa Cruz.  To use VoiceMap, you will need to download the VoiceMap app from Apple Store or Google Play.  This app is free, there is a charge for the audio driving tour.  

On this walking tour you'll have the chance to:  

• Visit the Doud Arcade and the Carmel Art Association
• Listen to stories about some of Carmel’s earliest Bohemian artists

• Learn how Carmel became an artist’s colony
• Watch local artists at work in their studios (during their business hours only)
• Visit 20 art galleries and studios including Aaron Chang Gallery, Bennett Sculpture, Dawson Cole Gallery, Delia Bradford Studio, Gallery North, Joaquin Turner Gallery, Mary Titus Gallery, Winfield Gallery, and Zantman Art Galleries
• View and learn about the history behind Carmel’s public art including the Valentine, Carmel Post Office’s public art, the Carmel Shell Mural, Rain sculpture, and the Bill Bates Mural

Happy Adventures and enjoy the tour! 

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This tour begins in front of Cypress Inn on the east side of Lincoln Street, between Ocean Avenue and 7the Avenue, Carmel-By-The-Sea.  It is a collaboration between me and my VoiceMap partner Dale Byrne.  Dale lives in Carmel and is the founder of Carmel Cares, a non-profit dedicated to keeping Carmel beautiful, safe and inviting.  We both encourage mindful behavior for locals and tourists to protect his incredible part of the world.  You will find our catalog of walking and driving tours at VoiceMap


Alright, it is time to get started. 

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You should be standing just to the left of the front entrance of the Cypress Inn. It is on the east side of Lincoln Street, near the corner of 7th Avenue.

Back at the turn of the 20th century, Carmel’s small population was dominated by artists.  The pristine beauty of the surroundings, and the free-thinking nature of the early bohemian community made Carmel a natural place in which to develop an artistic voice.

In fact it was reported in 1910 that over 60% of the homes in Carmel were owned by individuals pursuing a life in the arts.  Over a century later, Carmel is still filled with artists and their galleries. This walking tour of Carmel-by-the-Sea’s art galleries was designed to immerse visitors and residents in Carmel’s art culture.



As we wind our way through the charming courtyards of Carmel's historic downtown, you will hear stories about its early artist colony, and early bohemian artists.  You will also have the opportunity to meet a number of Carmel’s current artists, if they are in studio, learn what inspires them and view their art. Many of Carmel's galleries have limited open hours. Some are by reservation only. You will see the most current hours posted on the doors of each gallery.  This tour is a bit over one mile long and will take about two hours if you stop in the galleries. 


When we walk by or stop at any gallery on this tour, please feel free to go inside if the door is open.  Carmel artists love to share their work with visitors and locals. If you see something in a gallery window that is of interest to you and the gallery is closed,  call the contact number artists leave on their front door.  Our artists would love to hear from you and are happy to set up a time to show you their art. 

      ***
Now let me call your attention to the Cypress Inn.

                                                  

The lot where this hotel now stands was the location of the home studio of one of Carmel's earliest watercolor artists, Sydney Yard.  Mr. Yard purchased this lot in 1908 and hired Carmel architect M. J. Murphy to build his home. 

                           Landscape with Sheep by Sydney Yard - Sydney Yard Tonalist

After Yard’s death, in 1909, another early Carmel artist moved into the property, Mary DeNeale Morgan. Mary, along with her sister-in-law artist Charlotte Bodwell Morgan, were two of the founding members of the Carmel Art Association.  


Mary DeNeale Morgan (Bodega Bay Heritage Gallery
                                                  

You will learn more about this association later on our tour.   The art studio remained in the possession of the Morgan family until around 1998 when it was purchased by Cypress Inn Investors. At that time the studio was torn down and replaced by what is now the new wing of the Cypress Inn. 

Black and white photo of Morgan Building 1993 Historic Content Statement,
Carmel Historic Survey -  courtesy of Carmel City Hall Building Records



The main portion of the Cypress Inn, where the front entrance and lobby are located, was built in 1927 for Dr. Rudolph Kocher, one of Carmel's medical physicians.  It was designed by Oakland architect firm Blaine & Olsen in the Spanish Colonial Revival style to match the doctors medical office located just to the east of this building. Possibly looking for some sort of investment property,  Dr. Kocher opened this as the La Ribera Hotel in 1929, and except for a short time during the Depression, it has served as a hotel ever since. 


 La Ribera Hotel c. 1929 - Harrison Memorial History Library

In 1985, real-estate developer Denny LeVett and the late actress Doris Day purchased the hotel.  Ms. Day had just one non-negotiable condition.  The hotel must welcome pets.  After renovations, it was opened as the Cypress Inn, Carmel’s first pet-friendly hotel.  This would forever cement Carmel’s reputation as a dog-friendly destination and with its 4 pm “Yappy Hour”, it is now considered one of the most pet-friendly  hotels in the world. 


Terry's Lounge Yappy Hour 

Now take a look across the street at the garden area to the left of the Church of the Wayfarer.  


That is where we are headed.  With the entrance to the Cypress Inn on your left, walk to the corner of 7th, turn right and carefully cross Lincoln Street.  



After crossing the street, turn right and continue straight on Lincoln past the Church of the Wayfarer Garden. Our first stop will be the Kevin MilliganGallery.  


Kevin in his gallery - Kevin Milligan website

Kevin's gallery presents the work of a talented eclectic group of artists working in sculpture, photography, ceramic, painting, and mixed media.  Kevin's paintings depict the California Coast from Big Sur to Mendocino.  Kevin’s first book, Mendocino: A Painted Pictorial was selected by the Chief Curator of American Art for the Smithsonian Portrait Gallery of Literature. 


Stop in front of the Kevin Milligan Gallery while we hear from Kevin about his passion for painting.  

The quality of light is crucial, that is one of my passions, is to describe the quality of light and space.  The only way to achieve that, the best way to achieve that, I think, is to work on site and try to figure out the midtone colors.  It’s the one weakness of photography is the capture of the midtone. Photography captures textual minutia and fleeting atmospheric perspective, or atmospheric qualities like fog, that we have a lot around here.  But I have been known to paint four paintings in a day.  That is kind of my record, where I can’t do more than four.  But I’ll switch and do a circuit  where I will do a morning, a mid-day scene, a late afternoon, and an evening scene, when the sun is out a long time in the middle of the year.  I’m consistent to a light pattern just like a cinematographer, or other artists might look for shadow patterns, it is very crucial in painting.  So I am figuring that out with each painting. It is a fun part of the creative process to make those selections.”


Besides his paintings, Kevin has published two books, his second Big Sur to Mendocino, is an extensive collection of 114 color plates of his paintings made along the California Coast over a 22 year period.  



This book is a treasure chest of stories and paintings and iconic moments that commemorate and illuminate one of the most scenic regions of the world. If Kevin's gallery is open feel free to step inside and observe the art up close.


When you have finished visiting the Kevin Milligan Gallery, continue walking along Lincoln toward Ocean while I begin the story of Carmel’s artist colony.

San Francisco Earthquake and fire 1906 photograph Arnold Genthe 
Library of Congress 

The 1906 San Francisco Earthquake had a significant influence on population growth in Carmel.  Many San Francisco artists, including photographer Arnold Genthe watched their homes, art collections and dreams burn in the fires that followed the earthquake. 

Genthe took advantage of Carmel lots selling for $5 down.  Many other San Francisco artists did as well.  And with that Carmel's art colony began.  


Arnold Genthe lived in Carmel from 1905 to around 1911 in a house on El Camino Real near 11th Avenue. I have placed a picture of it above. During the early 1900's that wide porch had a lovely view of Carmel Beach. On that porch Genthe  hosted many a party with other early Carmel Bohemians such as George Sterling, Jack London, Mary Austin, Robinson and Una Jeffers.  This house had a cement cellar where Genthe first experimented with color film processing. 

If you are interested in viewing this home in person, our VoiceMap Carmel-by-the-Sea: Scenic Road Walking Tour takes you by this house and other historic homes. 

Our next stop is Aaron Chang's Gallery.  When you come to the corner of Lincoln and Ocean Avenue, turn right and carefully cross Lincoln. Continue walking straight along Ocean Avenue Carmel’s main street.  



Stop for a moment in front of the Aaron Chang Gallery and enjoy the display of art in his window.  


With three decades of experience and over 37 covers for Surfing magazine, internationally acclaimed surf and ocean photographer Aaron Chang worked his way to the pinnacle of the surfing photography world, redefining the sport of modern surfing through his lens.  

Covers from Aaron Chang website 

Chang’s images celebrate the unique character of the beaches, landscapes and wildlife around Carmel.  All of his work is available in custom sizes to transform the character of any commercial or residential space. If his gallery is open, I always stop in to view these amazing pieces up close. 


With the gallery on your right, continue on Ocean Avenue, past the Carmel Bakery.  Once you get to the corner, turn left and cross Ocean Avenue.  Continue walking along Dolores to the end of this block while I tell you about another early Carmel artist, Francis John McComas. 


Francis John McComas (1875-1938) Wikipedia

Landscape artist Francis John McComas was drawn to the pristine natural beauty of Carmel in 1912.   Upon viewing the Big Sur coastline with its jagged rocky cliffs and churning seas, McComas coined the phrase, “the greatest meeting of land and water in the world.” In 1924, Francis was commissioned to paint a mural of Monterey Peninsula on the wall of the Hotel Del Monte.

 
One evening while driving home through Pacific Grove, after imbibing at a local bar, Francis was arrested and put in the drunk tank overnight.  He was so mad that the next day he painted Pacific Grove off of the mural.  Today this mural may be seen on the wall of the Naval Postgraduate School.  Pacific Grove remains conspicuously absent from the map.  

Our next stop is Gallery Sur.  At the corner of Dolores and 6th, turn left and continue walking along 6th Avenue. 
Watch for the grey sign for Gallery Sur up ahead. Stop in front of their display window.


Gallery Sur was established in 1990 and specializes in large dramatic fine art color photography of Carmel and the Big Sur coastline. The photograph in the front window of the Point Sur Lighthouse is by David Potigian.


For the golfers, Gallery Sur also has an extensive collection of Pebble Beach and Cypress Point golf course prints.   You will also find a unique collection of Shona stone sculpture from Zimbabwe.   


 
From Gallery Sur, continue two doors down to Galerie Plein Aire



This gallery features work of husband-and-wife team Jeff Daniel Smith and Cyndra Bradford. Their focus is on impressionistic landscape oil paintings.  

                                         
                    Jeff Daniel Smith and Cyndra Bradford (Gallery Plein Aire website )


Jeff finds his inspiration in the beauty that is California, be it in the rolling hills, dotted with oaks, the glistening bay or a group of young pines reaching for the sky. 


Cyndra paints with oils and palette knife. Painting Alla prima 'painting without fear' to capture the immediacy of the moment. Cyndra is the sister of another artist we will visit on this tour, Delia Bradford. 

Continue along 6th Avenue to the corner.  Stop here at the corner and look diagonally to your right across the street, where you will find a couple sitting on a bench.  They are Mr. and Mrs. Valentine. Captured in bronze they have been sitting here since 1994.  

Cross Lincoln Street then turn right and cross 6th Avenue and stop when you get to the Valentine's. 

This bronze sculpture figure by George Wayne Lundeen was purchased by the City of Carmel for $40,000 and installed here in First Murphy Park in 1994.  It is just one of Carmel's public art pieces.  We will see others along this walk.  

First Murphy Park, which wraps around the south side of the historic First Murphy House, was designed by the architectural firm Hall & Rock and completed in 1993.  The design consists of large boulders, benches, and meandering paths surrounded by native drought-tolerant plants.  

Look just past the park to the white one-story wood house with the brick fire place, this is the historic First Murphy House.  This was built in 1902 by 17 year old M. J. Murphy.  He built it for his mother and sister. 
Over the years First Murphy House has been moved twice and was even set for demolition.  In 1992 it was moved to this location and historically restored by local architect Brian Congleton.  You may learn more about M. J. Murphy, who went on to build hundreds of homes in Carmel,  on our VoiceMap Carmel-by-the-Sea Off theBeaten Path Walking Tour.  


Today First Murphy House is the home of Carmel Heritage Society, a non-profit organization whose mission is to protect, preserve, and promote the cultural heritage of the community of Carmel-by-the-Sea. It is open periodically when docents are available.  

Now with the statue behind you, cross Lincoln Street and continue straight on 6th Avenue.  Our next stop is Dawson Cole Fine Art.  It will be on your left at the corner of Lincoln and 6th Avenue. 




This gallery features the work of world-renowned figurative sculptor Richard MacDonald. MacDonald is a leading advocate of the neo-figurative movement in the arts, and he is known for his ability to capture live models while they are in motion, depicting performers and dancers at the peak of their performance.  

Richard MacDonald Spires Exhibition (Incollect)


Richard MacDonald working with Steven Mcrae, Principal Dancer Royal Ballet London (Incollect)

The Dawson Cole Fine Art gallery, which opened in 1993, is located in the same place MacDonald launched his career over 25 years ago. If this is open I highly recommend a visit.   MacDonald also has one of his pieces on display at the Carmel Plaza.  We will visit this later on this tour.


Aurora by Richard MacDonald (2014)


With the Dawson Cole Gallery on your left continue straight along 6th.  Our next stop is the Weston Gallery up ahead.  



The Weston Gallery, which is currently only open by appointment, features the vintage and contemporary photography of Edward Weston, Ansel Adams and Morley Baer. 


Ansel Adams (1902 - 1984) Wikipedia 

Ansel Adams was an American landscape photographer and environmentalist.  He is known for his black-and-white photographs of the American West.  The United States Department of Interior contracted Ansel to photograph the National Parks. For his work, which helped expand the National Park system, he was awarded the Presidential Medal of Freedom in 1980. 


"Monolith" Face of Half Dome, Yosemite (1927) Wikipedia

Morley Baer was an American photographer and teacher at the San Francisco Art Institute.  He is know for his photographs of San Francisco's Painted Ladies Victorian houses as well as California landscapes and seascapes.  After viewing an exhibition of Edward Weston in Chicago in 1939, he was inspired to make a pilgrimage to Carmel.  

Morley Baer (1916 - 1995) Portrait by Bill Baxter Wikipedia

Ten years later Baer had settled in Carmel and working with his Ansco view camera photographing the central coast’s natural scene.  He became a close personal friend of Edward Weston’s and spent many a day at Weston’s home on Wildcat Hill in the Carmel Highlands.  Baer was also one of the original founders of Friends of Photography (now known as the Center for Photographic Art) along with Ansel Adams and Brett Weston at the Sunset Center in Carmel.  


Morley Baer with his Ansco Camera (Photograph David Fullagar) Wikipedia

Edward Weston has been called "one of the most innovative and influential American photographers, and one of the masters of 20th century photography."

Edward Weston c. 1915 (1886- 1958) Wikipedia 

Over the course of his 40-year career Weston photographed an increasingly expansive set of subjects, including landscapes, still-life's, nudes, and portraits.


The Weston Gallery was established in 1975 by Maggi Weston and is currently owned and operated by Matthew Weston, Edward’s grandson, and his wife Davi. 
 
Continue walking to the corner. At the corner turn left and continue straight on Dolores.  Stop when you get to Jennifer PerlimutterGallery.  

Jennifer Perlmutter Gallery (from website

Jennifer's career began with gilding, paint, and other media. She produced high-end furniture with layered finishes, much of this work has been featured in the Los Angeles Pacific Design Center, and in the homes of celebrities and art collectors worldwide. By 2001, Jennifer devoted herself to fine art, exploring metal leaf, watercolor, acrylics, and oils, and ultimately found her niche in mixed media on wood and canvas.  But let's let Jennifer tell you a bit about her passion for her art. 

Jennifer Perlmutter (from website

Welcome to the Jennifer Perlmutter Gallery.  I believe there is something bigger than the material world working with me and this connection is the life force in all art.  The act of painting and expressing my self through art is honoring this connection.  When you engage with the art openly, you will feel it too.  My passion is to paint from the “inside out” using mixed media and collage because this process brings out my truest self.  I paint the richness within and the emotions of a complicated, layered world.” 


Now continue next door to Bennett Sculpture Gallery. It will be just to the left of the Su Vecino Courtyard sign. 


This courtyard grew up around the terrace of Su Vecino’s Mexican restaurant that opened here in the 1950’s.  For a while, the serape worn by Clint Eastwood in The Good, the Bad and the Ugly found its home here.  It was later known as Jack London Square and featured a namesake restaurant pub.  Though Su Vecino’s and Jack London’s are gone, along with the serape, Cultura restaurant which, is located in the center of this square, has taken their place.  This courtyard is also home to two galleries on this tour, Bennett Sculpture and Joaquin Turner Gallery.


Bennett Sculpture was created by world-renowned sculptors Bob and Tom Bennett, identical twins who shared a singular artistic vision.  Their work is unmistakable: brilliant forms designed in light, sculpted by hand, and cast in bronze.  They began their career in 1969 welding wire sculptures in the back of a gas station they owned.  In the 1970’s they built a foundry and by the late 1980’s had opened a span of art galleries, one in Carmel. Though their work was widely collected, the Bennett’s closed the foundry and the galleries in the 1990’s.  Bob passed away in 2003 and Tom in 2016. 



In 2012 the original Bennett Sculpture Carmel sign was located and touched up.  It now appears over the door of this new gallery, where Terrie Bennett, Tom’s daughter and Ashley Bennett-Stoddard, Bob’s daughter, continue the Bennett legacy. 

Ashley Bennett-Stoddard

Ashley is a sculptor and a painter.  The passion, or inspiration behind her work is color, nature, the human spirit, and community.  She uses bright colors to create large-scale projects.

After you have visited the Jennifer Perlmutter Gallery and Bennett Sculpture, enter the Su Vecino Courtyard and continue to Joaquin Turner Gallery.  It will be on your right in the courtyard.  



Stop here in front of the Joaquin Turner Gallery.  Before I tell you a bit more about this artist, I will let Joaquin introduce himself. 


Joaquin Turner member artist Carmel Art Association

Hi my name is Joaquin Turner and I am a local artist here in Carmel and I paint in the tonalist tradition. I am very influenced by the European Old Masters and the French Barbizon school of painting. A lot of the early California artists, especially the early Monterey and Carmel artists, painted in the tonalist style. This mysterious and moody aesthetic really speaks to me and I am trying to continue that tradition in my own little way.  I feel it is a perfect style to capture the landscape of our area.


Joaquin was born among the gnarled cypress trees and windswept dunes of Fort Ord. As a young child his father’s military career took the family to Europe. It was there that Joaquin was introduced to the world’s greatest art museums, he became deeply inspired by the Old Masters and studied their techniques in painting classes in Germany. Upon his father’s retirement, the family moved back to the Monterey Peninsula, Joaquin finished high school in Pacific Grove and, as a teenager, discovered the works of the early Monterey Peninsula artists. Inspired by the uniqueness of their landscapes, he set out to share his own impressions of the area's unparalleled beauty. 

Joaquin at work (gallery website)

Joaquin’s gallery is designed and decorated to give visitors the feeling of stepping back 100 years to the days of the city’s fledgling bohemian art scene when local artists welcomed the public into their creative dwellings. His gallery features not only his original work, but also those of important Early California artists, including William Ritschel, Mary DeNeale Morgan, Charles Rollo Peters, and William Keith.


When Joaquin or his wife are in the gallery and studio they are always so happy to visit. Joaquin is usually in Thursday through Monday from noon to 5 pm.

Once you have enjoyed your visit to this gallery, exit and turn left to leave the Su Vecino Courtyard. Then turn left back onto Dolores.  Our next stop are the stone steps in front of the Carmel Art Association. 
 



This is Carmel's oldest art gallery.  It was founded in 1927 and features the work of more than 100 professional local artists.  The historic building provides exhibition space for its members’ works and displays a wide variety of styles and media that change every month. Many of its early members were among the great early California artists we introduce you to on this walking tour, including Mary DeNeale Morgan, Percy Gray, Francis McComas and E. Charlton Fortune.  



Continue up the steps to the sculpture garden and stop there for a moment while I tell you the story behind this historic building and organization.

On August 8, 1927, a group of 19 artists met at the home of artists Josephine Culbertson and Ida Johnson to establish an association for the advancement of art among Carmel’s growing artist community.  A month later, the Carmel Art Association was founded. At first they rented a room in the Seven Arts building a few blocks away on the corner of Ocean Avenue and Lincoln for $30 a month, but lost that lease during the Great Depression in 1929.

Now, as happens many times with our old-time Bohemians, the story gets a little somber. Artist, poet, writer, and actor Ira “Rem” Remson lived with his wife, Carmel’s flaxen haired beauty, Yodi, in a cottage right here on this property. Yodi liked to socialize, Rem did not. In 1928, Yodi left Rem for another man and Rem never recovered from the loss.

On Thanksgiving that year, Rem invited several friends for dinner. When they arrived, they found Rem hanging from the beam in what is now the Beardsley Room of the Carmel Art Association. In 1933, the Carmel Art Association took up residence in Rem and Yodi’s former house.  The Carmel Art Association is composed of local artists who are selected by their peers, and is considered one of the oldest operating non-profit artist cooperatives in the United States. 

Carmel Art Association (Facebook)


The association, which opens at 10am Thursday through Monday, exists to provide its members not only with a permanent art gallery, but to advance knowledge and interest in the Carmel art scene. If the gallery is open you might want to ask at the front desk the location of the Beardsley Room.  After you have perused the gallery, descend the stairs, turn left and continue walking to the corner. 


The Pit (2.12.21 Monterey County Weekly

As you walk to the corner on your left is what residents call “The Pit.”  This massive hole has been empty since 2018 when two buildings at this site were demolished to make way for a multi-use development that came to a halt due to lack of financing.    Monaco businessman Patrice Pastor purchased this property in March of 2020 for $9 million and has sent several designs to the Carmel Planning Department. Someday one of the designs might be accepted. 

At the corner of 5th and Dolores, carefully cross 5th and continue walking to the Carmel Post Office. If the lobby is open, go in and look around.  


Otherwise just peek through the glass and look up high on the lobby walls. There you will find some posters of cartoons, that are very humorous but also quite accurately illustrate life in Carmel. These are by the late and beloved Carmel resident Bill Bates who, for 36 years, worked as a cartoonist for our local newspaper, the Carmel Pine Cone. You can pick up a Pine Cone around town or read it online. Take a look at the Editorial page where you will find the Best of Bates cartoon.



Bates wasn't the only cartoonist to call Carmel home.  I will tell you more about the others later on this tour. 


Bill Bates Cartoon

From the Post Office, walk back to the corner of Dolores and 5th and turn left.  Continue straight along Dolores.   



 After you pass Gallerie Amsterdam turn left before the Toro Restaurant into the courtyard.  And continue to the back of the courtyard to the Kathy Sharpe Gallery.  Here gallery will be on your right, it is the one with the red Dutch door.  



Kathy has an interesting pedigree.  Her grandfather was a costume designer for the Vienna Opera and her cousin a well-known cartoonist and accomplished watercolorist. 

Kathy Sharpe in her gallery when the door was blue (website


Kathy, who is primarily an oil painter, took up watercolor in 1990 while traveling in Europe when her husband received the Nobel Prize in Economics.  She has had thirty, one-person shows, been included in forty juried shows, her work is included in private collections around the world, and sold by Gump's, Nordstrom and Nieman Marcus. 


Her gallery is “Open by Chance”  which means rarely, or by appointment.  If you happen by and her door is open make sure you go in and enjoy her vibrant art.  Otherwise just take a peek through the window, the colors pop off the walls!



Now turn around and exit the courtyard the way you arrived and turn left on Dolores.  Our next stop is just a few doors down Dolores, Mary Titus Gallery.    




Mary recently relocated to this storefront so currently there is not sign out in front.  You will see her sign in the window. It reads Mary Titus Gallery Studio.


Mary was born in Florida in 1950 and moved to Carmel in 1983. She has shown in many galleries, is collected by people all over the world and won many awards.  Her art has taken her on many adventures around the world.  One time she joined a group of Scientist and Oceanographers on a research ship in Alpha Helix, Alaska.  Another time she taught a painting workshop in Saudi Arabia for a Princess. 


Mary also gives private art lessons and her art may be commissioned in any size or medium.  At the time of this recording she is concentrating on her one-of-a-kind pieces which are unique and colorful. Her gallery opens daily around 10:30am. Whenever she is in studio I always make a point to stop in and watch her at work!

With Mary's gallery to your left continue straight and walk to the corner of Dolores and 6th.  Carefully cross 6th Avenue, turn left and continue along 6th.  Our next stop is Delia Bradford Fine Arts.


                                         

Up ahead, do you notice the unique sign shaped as a painters palette with the name Delia?  Stop in front of it.  This is the art studio of Delia Bradford.  Actually unique might be redundant, as all the store front signs in Carmel must be distinctive to their commercial establishment and approved by the City.


Delia Bradford grew up in Big Sur and is the daughter of two professional artists and the sister of Cyndra Bradford of Gallery Plein Aire we visited earlier. But why don't we let Delia tell her own story. 

Delia Bradford (Visit Carmel Facebook


"Hi I’m Delia Bradford. My artistic inspiration comes from growing up in Big Sur.  As a small child, every morning when I woke up, I was met with a beautiful landscape of land, sky and sea.  I wanted to preserve these moments of beauty on paper and canvas.  My style is impressionist and my passion is painting plein air. Both of my parents were artists and they were really stingy with their use of paint.  I rebelled and use a lot of paint. I love color and am influenced by the French Impressionists and Early California Impressionists.”




When she is in studio she can be found wearing her painter’s apron that is covered with thick vibrant multi-colored layers of acrylic paint.  When her artist studio door is open I always stop in to see what she is working on.

Cooke's Cove Delia Bradford


With Delia's gallery on your right, continue straight on 6th Avenue. As you walk, I will tell you about another early artist E. Charlton Fortune. 


E. Charlton Fortune in her studio in Rhode Island (Angelus)

She opened a gallery in Monterey in 1931 and became one of the most sought-after women painters in the West. 


E. Charlton Fortune Christ Meets His Mother (Crocker Art Museum)


In 1928 she received a commission to decorate St. Angela’s Catholic Church in Pacific Grove with liturgical art, for which she won an award from Pope Pius XII. 



Continue walking.  When you get to the corner,  turn left onto San Carlos and cross 6th Avenue. Continue walking along San Carlos Street. While you walk I will tell you about a number of other cartoonists who called Carmel home.  

Hank Ketcham (1920 - 2001 find a grave)

Hank Ketcham, the creator of the "Dennis the Menace" comic strip, lived in Carmel off and on over the course of his life.  He was known for leaving his orders at the Carmel Milk shrine in comic form.


Alex Anderson (1920 - 2010 find a grave

Alex Anderson, the creator of "Rocky and Bullwinkle", spent his golden years living near Carmel. And Gus Arriola the creator of the widely syndicated cartoon strip "Gordo" was also a resident.  


Gus Arriola 1949 (1917-2008) Wikipedia 

These three along with Bill Bates would come together periodically at a local Carmel coffee shop to share stories and reminisce. 



Keep going straight along San Carlos and keep a watch out for the Hogs’s Breath Inn up ahead. There is a wooden boar head out in front. For many years this was owned by actor and former Carmel mayor Clint Eastwood.  Though Clint no longer owns the Hog's Breath Inn, he does however own the Mission Ranch at the end of town on Dolores.  

When you come to the corner of San Carlos and 5th, turn right and carefully cross San Carlos Street.  You will pass the Shell gas station.  

This Shell station is one of only two gas stations in the village.  Notice the uniqueness of this station's design which includes Japanese pergolas and a decorative concrete seashell sign.  The is the result of the Carmel Planning Commission's insistence that a "manufactured service station" never be built in Carmel. 



Saul Alinsky (1909 - 1972) Wikipedia 

This particular corner in Carmel is also the location where community activist and author Saul Alinsky died of a heart attack on June 12, 1972 after running an errand downtown. 


Percy Gray (1869 - 1952) Fine Art Site
  

Continue straight on 5th while I tell you about another local artist, Percy Gray.  Born in 1869, Percy studied art at the San Francisco School of Design.  He was a master watercolorist, and was best known for his landscapes.  Throughout his career, he had studios in New York, San Francisco, and Monterey.  

Poppies and Lupine Pt. Lobos (Percy Gray 1925)


Gray's art was considered conservative in form.  He was a member of the Society for Sanity in Art, an organization of conservatives fighting against modern art. In 1922, Percy married Leone Phillips and they moved to Carmel where he was active in Carmel’s early artist colony and a member of the Carmel Art Association.

At the corner, turn right and continue straight on Mission Street.  Our next stop will be in the courtyard of the Mission Patio Shops, where we will visit Scott Jacobs Fine Art. His studio is at the back of the courtyard.  
                                         

Scott’s inspiration is the miracle of life and his art is traditional yet contemporary.  It has been been described as “bold, figurative art”.  He gained worldwide fame after releasing his fine art portrait of Senator Barack Obama, entitled Someday has Come, during his campaign for President in 2008.  Subsequently, he painted a portrait of comedian-actor Bill Murray entitled There’s Always Hope.


Take some time to enjoy Scott’s work.  Then exit the courtyard the way you arrived and turn right back onto Mission Street.  Our next stop is TravisHall Fine Art.  



Early in his career as an artist, Travis moved to Santa Fe, New Mexico.  It was here that he developed a love for landscape and devoted his time to painting and learning his technique.  In 2002 he was hailed as one of the 21 top artists under the age of 31 in the country by Southwest Art magazine.  In 2003, using a technique that was pioneered by renowned artist and friend Susan Sales, Travis introduced a line of contemporary abstract paintings that incorporate this technique, a subtle layering of bold luminous colors with a smooth glass-like finish.  His gallery also features contemporary artist Ann Artz and Stephanie Paige.  

From the Travis Hall Fine Art gallery continue walking on Mission Street toward Ocean Avenue.  Carefully cross 6th Avenue.  Our next stop is another piece of Carmel public art, the Carmel Shell mural. 
                                          
100 years ago, artists learned of Carmel-by-the-Sea by word-of-mouth, today Carmel’s quaint village is spread far and wide on the internet.  The Carmel Shell mural was created by local artist Marie-Clare Treseder Gorham in 2020.  It is a perfect backdrop for your social media post on Instagram or Facebook.


Gorham is a Carmel-based folk artist who incorporates medieval themes and iconography in her work that reflects the style of the California Arts and Crafts movement. Her great-grandfather was William S. Rice, one of the masters of the movement.

                                                       
                                        Marie Clare at work (Monterey County Weekly

Marie-Clare finds her inspiration from ambling strolls throughout  town and the local landscape and sea that surrounds it.  Next to the shell she has painted an “artist inspiration map” which details the historic and artistic points from around the village that inspired her to paint this shell crest.

Continue walking to the corner of Ocean Avenue and Mission Street. At the corner stop for a moment and look diagonally to your left across the street.  That is the Carmel Plaza and it is our next stop.  



Okay turn to your left and carefully cross Mission Street toward Devendorf Park.  When you get to the other side, turn right and carefully cross Ocean Avenue. 


You should be in front of Tiffany & Co.  Turn to your left and walk to the end of this building.  Here you will find a fountain, shopping center directory, and a bronze statue. 



This statue titled Rain was created by world-famous contemporary figurative artist, Richard MacDonald. We visited his studio earlier on this tour. 


This location is also the 2nd floor entrance to Carmel Plaza.  If you are so inclined you might want to explore this shopping plaza, it is filled with unique retails stores, restaurants, and wine rooms. The Carmel Visitor Center is on this level and there is a restroom at the back of the plaza on the third floor. 

When you are ready to continue with this walking tour, turn around and walk back to the corner by Tiffany. Then carefully cross Mission Street.   After crossing the street, turn to your left and continue straight on Mission. 

To your right you will pass Mad Dogs and Englishmen bike store which stocks the world's finest bikes.  It also offers unforgettable cycling experiences in some of the most magical destinations on Earth, that would be Carmel-by-the-Sea. 

Next on your right is Mission Bistro restaurant, specializing in meats and seafood, here you will truly get a taste of the best of what Carmel has to offer.  


Our next stop is Patricia Qualls Gallery in Redwood Court.  Patricia began her working career as a clinical psychologist, but after taking an intuitive painting class, she began painting every day after work.  Eventually transitioning over time to a full-time artist.


Contemporary artist Patricia’s philosophy can be described as one of experimentation and unencumbered expression.  Most of her paintings begin with a base layer of thick white paint.  Then listening to the energy of each unique piece of art, Patricia adds layer upon layer of color with powerful brush strokes in fluid motions until each piece speaks its completion. Patricia strongly believes in the freedom of expression, and that by unblocking internal restraints one can relinquish the creative comparisons and competition that limit our own expression. 


With Patrician Qualls Gallery on your right, continue walking straight.  Our next stop is the Court of the Fountains. Turn right into this court and walk to the back of the courtyard toward the copper-roofed gazebo.  This is Lisa's Studio and our next stop.
 

Court of the Fountains, another one of Carmel’s charming courtyards, lies behind Anton & Michel restaurant. 



Originally this site was M. J. Murphy’s lumber yard. But today it contains a tranquil pool with fountains, an old-fashioned barber shop, wine room and Lisa’s Studio. 



Lisa was born in England, raised in Canada and has lived and painted throughout the world.  She is famous for her souvenir “Carmel Treasure Map”, one might say it is the first of its kind since Jo Mora’s cartes of the 1940’s.  But let’s  have Lisa  tell you about her passion for art.


Hi, I’m Lisa Bryan and welcome to my gazebo studio.  From a very young age I have always loved to paint animals and, as you cane see in my studio that passion continues today.  But, when I first came to Carmel 40 years ago, this Village and the many unique buildings in it became my muse.  This unique place screamed at me to paint every nook and cranny and I did just that in Sketches of Carmel.  I then created the Treasure Map from those images and later a series of puzzles.  You can use my map to find great places to shop and eat and then treasure it for years to come as a keepsake! 



Lisa is comfortable with oils, watercolors, and mixed media. And by the way I am a big fan of Lisa's Carmel puzzles, I own all of them!  If her door is open, go inside and see what she is working on. 

When you are finished, exit her studio and turn right. Walk past the beautiful pool and fountain.  


Continue straight past the second gazebo and exit the courtyard through the gate and down the stairs. When you get to the street, turn right and keep walking to the corner.    


At the corner turn right and continue straight on San Carlos toward Ocean Avenue.  Our next stop is the large mural on the wall just past Nielson's Market.  



Just past Nielsen Brothers Market, which is a great place to pick up a snack if you are so inclined, look for the huge mural of Carmel. Stop and take a look at it.



The mural was created by cartoonist Bill Bates, and Carol Minou in the 1980s, it is a humorous light-hearted view of Carmel. You saw some of Bill's cartoons in the Post Office earlier on this tour.




Sadly this mural is in need of a restoration as the paint is chipping heavily in many places. But if you are interested in a poster of this work, it is sold inside Nielsen Market. My VoiceMap partner Dale Byrnes is raising money through Carmel Cares to restore this treasure.  

Continue walking along San Carlos. Our next stop will be Zantman's Gallery.  It is just past the Well's Fargo Bank. 


Johan and Gertrude Zantman launched this enterprise in 1959.  It is one of Carmel's oldest commercial galleries celebrating over 60 years of being in business. 


The third owners of this gallery, William and Kimberly Yant are thankful to the legacy the Zantman's began, and intend to continue to provide the same quality and customer service that their clients have come to know for the last 6 decades. The Yant's showcase new and aspiring artists, as well as notable artists already at the forefront of the contemporary art scene. 




With the Zantman Gallery on your right, continue walking to the corner. Stop for a moment at the corner and take a look straight ahead at the Memorial Arch.  It is in the center median of Ocean Avenue. 


  
This arch was designed in 1919 by renowned architect and Carmel resident Charles Sumner Greene. It was completed on Veterans Day in 1921 and dedicated "In honor of those who served and in memory of those who died."  The Memorial Arch is maintained by Carmel's American Legion Post 512.

Before the Memorial Arch was erected here, this was the location of the town water trough where early residents had to come to get their drinking water before a water system was installed in the village.

Alright let's continue, turn to your left and carefully cross San Carlos Street.  Once on the other side of the street, turn left and continue straight down the other side of San Carlos.  Our next stop is the colorful mural  on the wall outside the back entrance to the Doud Crafts Studio.  It will be on your right. 




 Titled California Del Norte via El Camino Real, it was painted in 1955 by Mary Miller Klepich and depicts historic figures from pre-statehood California. 


Now look to the right of the mural and the entrance to the Doud Crafts Studio.  It is under the medal awning. 


Enter the studio and walk past the Carmel Belle counter to the back wall where you will find Robin's Jewelry.  This is our next stop. 

This covered arcade shopping mall was completed in 1961.  The rear of this mall, where you are standing now, was the Carmel Craft Center dedicated to local craftsman.  At that time, you would have found small studios for sculpting, printing, ceramics, and my favorite, glass blowing.   Today you will find everything from socks, candles, hats, lamps, Christmas decorations, Turkish rugs, and Robin's Jewelry. 



Robin is a Carmel native and never dreamed that she would open a jewelry studio in her hometown.  But after 12 years at the Mid Valley Shopping Center in Carmel Valley, Robin moved her studio here to the Doud Arcade in April 2022.  Robin is excited to tell you more about her art.



My name is Robin Mahoney. I created Robin’s Jewelry as a place to express my creativity as a landlocked mermaid making jewelry out of what washed up in the tide.  This Organic Bling uses materials like beach glass and semi-precious stones, usually set in sterling silver and many times having a surprise on the back.  Working with my apprentice Keeza, each creation is hand-made here and is a true piece of Carmel-by-the-Sea.  We also make a unique, hand-made magic wand that we include with every purchase! If the door is open, come one in, we would love to show you around.” 


Robin creates that magic wand right in front of your eyes in about 32 seconds.  I know, I’ve timed her!

After you visit Robin's studio exit and turn left walk past the sock and candle shops, Kris Kringle of Carmel, and out onto Ocean Avenue. Turn left on Ocean Avenue.  


Exit the Doud onto Ocean Avenue and turn left.  Then turn left into the Las Tiendas Building patio, it is a white stucco building. 




The Las Tiendas was built in 1930 by M.J. Murphy. Continue past the Carmel Coffee House to the end of the courtyard.  Our next stop is Robin Winfield’s Gallery



Stop here for a moment in front of Robin’s gallery while she introduces herself.

 “Hi, I’m Robin Winfield. As a photographer, I am drawn to the beauty of the symmetry in architecture, the perfection of the man-made, and its dichotomy. Often my central focus is on “the doorway”.  Most of the doorways I choose to photograph are closed, leaving the viewer to create the world beyond. When describing my work and the process I use, two words come to mind: structure and balance.  In structuring a piece, I begin with a realistic focus – the photograph – and use this as a vehicle to express a mood or an aspect of the human condition.  I personally invite you to my studio."


Robin’s gallery is open Monday through Saturday from 11:00 a.m. and Sunday at noon.  I always make a point of stopping in if her door is open.  When you are finished, exit and turn left then make an immediate right into the alleyway. 



Continue through the alley, past the outdoor seating area for Mulligan’s.  When you come to Dolores, the street ahead of you, turn left.  Our next stop is GalleryNorth.  It will be just past the entrance to Mulligan's Public House.


Located in the heart of Carmel, Gallery North was founded in 2004 by artist Barbara Kreitman. The art you will find in the Gallery North range from emerging to mid-career artists, most of whom live and work in the Monterey Bay Area.  This gallery emphasizes an exciting and growing presence of non-objective and figurative abstract artwork. 


From Gallery North continue along Dolores in the direction you were headed. 


 Our next stop is Winfield Galley and Lepe Cellars.  



This is the last gallery we will visit on this tour and it resides in the historic Tudor Revival De Yoe Building.  It was built and designed by M. J. Murphy in 1924 and was home to the Denny-Watrous art Gallery until 1927 when it became the home of Carmel’s newspaper The Pine Cone.  The newspaper resided here until the end of World War II.  

Christopher Winfield (Gallery website)

Today this is the location of Christopher Winfield’s art gallery. Christopher, who is Robin Winfield's brother, founded this gallery in 1989.  As gallery director, Christopher has created a comfortable and inviting contemporary art space with a rather eclectic mix. His principal focus is the representation of contemporary art by established, mid-career, and emerging artists whose diverse practices include painting, drawing, sculpture, ceramics, and photography.  You make take a 360 tour of this gallery on google maps here.


This is also home to Lepe Cellars Tasting Room. After studying viticulture at California Polytechnic State University, Miguel Lepe began his career working for various well respected wineries across California's Central Coast and South America. Today he showcases his own with the best of Monterey County wines. A nice way to finish off a day visiting art galleries in Carmel would be with a tasting of Lepe wine, don't you think?  




When you are finished visiting the Winfield Gallery, exit and turn left. Our next stop is the El Paseo Courtyard & Passageway. It will be after the Tuck Box and the Little Napoli restaurant. The name will be over the courtyard entry. 


You might notice that this building is similar in style to the Cypress Inn, where we began this tour.  It is also similar to La Bicyclette the restaurant on the corner across the street. 




There is reason for that.  All three buildings were designed by the same architect, Blaine and Olsen, in the Spanish Colonial style between 1927 and 1929.

Jo Mora (1876 - 1947) Wikipedia

Before we end our tour I want to tell you a bit about one more early Carmel artist, Jo Mora. Jo is the son of a classically trained Catalonian sculptor and was born in Uruguay in 1876.  His family moved to the east coast where Jo spent his young years attending several art schools and working as an illustrator and cartoonist.  He is also famous for his cartes, which are illustrated maps. 


Serra Cenotaph Carmel Mission 

In 1921 Jo moved to Carmel-by-the-Sea and remained working in the area for the rest of his life. He was an artist-historian, sculptor, painter, photographer, illustrator, author, and muralist.  His most important commission was the creation of the monumental bronze and travertine cenotaph for Father Junipero Serra located at the Carmel Mission.  One other work by Jo Mora may be found in Carmel.  The El Paseo sculpture, a colorful pair of early Californios was sculpted out of terra cotta is located at the back of the El Paseo Courtyard. Enter the courtyard.  The entrance is between Little Napoli and Vino Napoli. Continue walking to the back of the courtyard to view this sculpture.  

 


Alright we are on our way back to the Cypress Inn where we began this tour.  At the corner of Dolores and 7th, turn right and carefully cross Dolores toward La Bicyclette. Continue straight on 7th.  


Up ahead on your right you will see a sign that reads Terry’s Lounge Cypress Inn.   It will be near an iron fence.  Take a look inside the fence and to the right to see a mural of Charlie Chaplin. Charlie is featured inside a pink heart.



He was a regular visitor to Carmel during the 1930’s.  This mural was painted by a French-born street artist Mr. Brainwash in 2010. Right next to the mural is the patio of Terry’s Lounge, named after Doris Day’s son, producer and songwriter Terry Melcher, and is a great place to stop for refreshment.  Happy hour is 4 pm to 6 pm Sunday through Thursday.

Well this is where I will be leaving you.  We hope you have enjoyed your visit to Carmel-by-the-Sea and some of its art galleries.   Until next time, Happy Adventures! 


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Pictures by L. A. Momboisse unless noted by the picture in the body of the blog


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